A trip to the beautiful Cook Islands
This was a trip with many purposes, firstly the excuse a 50th birthday party like no other and secondly a chance to check out Cook Islands Paradise, and check it out we did exploring both Rarotonga and the stunning Aitutaki.
Arriving in beautiful Rarotonga
Well here we are just a few weeks home and off again on holiday – this time a ‘real’ holiday as in sun, sand and sea. Getting a full days work in before heading off early evening to Auckland was all pretty stress free except we had managed to book some cheap JetStar flights and only given ourselves 20kg between us, should have been heaps but adding in a bit of food, snorkeling gear and all my camera ‘stuff’ we were struggling to fit it all and still manged to be a bit over. No one seemed to care at any of the check ins so I suppose it is pretty normal and only slight hitch was when we got on the flight in Auckland having purchased the front seats to find they had been sold twice and we no longer had them. Holiday was too precious to get too stressed by it but was certainly quite confused having never struck that before. But as luck would have it the other couple that were put in the seats we purchased were unable to stay as not mobile enough so we were given them anyway! If you fly cheap that is what you expect I suppose and we were on our way to rest and relaxation so all good.
Arriving in Rarotonga (where we would spend the first 4 days) at 2:30am luckily for us only felt like 12:30am so we were all settled into our very comfortable accommodation at Coral Sands and really hoping to sleep in. We couldn’t see much the first night but a beautiful walk just out of the accommodation and onto the beach showed us we had arrived in paradise, beautiful beach with the reef just beyond and a still morning so got lovely pictures of an old wharf reflection.
Good spots to photograph being a key thing for me of course. We had a very quiet day with me hitting the wall, tired wise, early afternoon. Cam went on an explore of the Island and got a few supplies from town riding the bus to get around Raratonga which has two trip options; ‘clockwise’ or ‘anticlockwise’ Dead easy but totally random when it actually comes to a bus stop even though you are given a timetable. Island time so no one cares.
The sunset arrived around 6pm, quite early so the days are not long but very beautiful out on the beach. So far our impression is very positive and one of an Island full of scooters, rosters and dogs. Might have to get our own scooter tomorrow to explore further afield.
Exploring Rarotonga
A nice quiet start to the day again and then off to explore the Island. We wondered down the road from Coral Sands to BT scooter hire which came highly recommended and lived up to expectations. We got kitted out with our scooter and because I was the only one with a motorbike license I got to drive – suited both of us just fine.
Given the speed-limit all around the Island is just 50km per hour there is not too much harm you can come to and it really is just clockwise or anticlockwise so navigation a breeze. We got around to the main beach area by the Lagoon ‘Muri’ and ended up snorkelling just west of this near where the glass bottom boats went in. I would not say the water was tropical but it was a nice first snorkel and plenty of variety of fish.
The afternoon we decided to take on the cross island track and go half way to the ‘Needle’ its quite a trek to do it all the way from town across and then get a bus back so we scootered to the start of the walk and did a there and back just to the needle not right over.
It was a pretty gnarly track with plenty of slipping with the recent rain and clambering up tree roots. We managed the up to find the rock with a chain going around it at which point my heart gave out and I let Cam head on up and around… it looked a bit like a climbing or abseiling set up.
Coming back was a bit on the slippy side but was really worth the walk through the bush and view back to the sea from the top. I had assumed there would be round the island views but that was not the case – I would suggest this walk is not for the faint hearted.
We had got some food from the local supermarket and did a barbeque while capturing the sunset once again. We were pretty tired from our early start so it was not too wild a night out and about. We did decide though we wanted to go diving tomorrow so late in the evening we emailed a couple of places as they were starting at 8am… setting the alarm we crashed hoping for a big nights sleep.
Diving and packing
Waking early we called the dive shop down the road in the morning Dive Rarotonga and they had room for us so threw breaky down, grabbed our gear and got on the scooter. What a great decision they were really professional and given I have not dived for about 3 years made me feel really confident.
We did two dives for $99 which seems to the be the Island going rate and is incredible value. Both dives were fabulous the first at ‘Edna’ and such a variety of fish, not big ones but oh so many and a hilarious blue trigger fish that had buck teeth and followed us and our guide Karen everywhere.
The second site ‘Paradise’ was similar in terms of fish but was a really beautiful coral garden with like mushrooms or umbrellas of coral all on top of each other. The water was super clear and very relaxing. Both dives were 15-18 meters so totally manageable. I did seem to struggle a bit with sea sickness but they didn’t go far from shore so I am just attributing that to not being use to diving for a while as it is pretty physically exhausting. The dive captain suggested we went to Charlies Bar to a fish sandwich for lunch but thought we might possibly cope with sharing it oh boy was he right they were huge! And delicious definitely need to pass on that recommendation,
That pretty much filled in the day so we had a peaceful afternoon at Coral Sands before our night out which was dinner on the beach at Waterline hotel just down the road which had come highly recommended. It certainly lived up to the expectation our table was right on the beach so we watched the sunset sipping margaritas before enjoying a delicious meal complete with about 5 dogs wondering down the beach coming to say hello!!
They really do have a dog problem here and if you didn’t like them I think you would really struggle.
Tomorrow is a quite day before we head off to Aitutaki mid afternoon, I don’t think we will get up to much just pack and get organised and indeed that is pretty much what we did do. I popped into town to get a little bit of shopping to take over and captured another sunset but nothing else to write home about. We have really loved Rarotonga and would certainly recommend it and come back again.
Arriving in paradise
It was pretty obvious flying in that we were coming to a new level of Paradise, a heap of lslands all inside an amazing reef with little to be seen of buildings and just a few roads cutting through the bush. Add to that all the different colours of blue and you can just begin to picture how gorgeous it is.
The birthday girl was there to greet us at the airport as well as our accommodation van complete with lei and a coconut each yum yum yum.
They whisked us off to Paradise Cove and settled us into our perfect little hut on stilts right on the beach. Very simple, very clean and very much everything you need. Bed and a little kitchenette, bathroom and a balcony under the palm trees looking straight out at the beautiful reef and into the sunset. I had asked ahead for a hut with uninterrupted views as some of them sit behind a little breakfast shelter and I was thrilled they were able to accommodate that (no 2 if others are wondering).
We grabbed a few supplies and went down to meet the others after picking up our scooter for the week, once again I have the license so am designated driver. The Island is much smaller than Raratonga but it would be pretty impossible to do without a scooter and it’s not expensive ($25 a day). Some people hired bikes but the quality was a bit average so I would go with a scooter myself.
Managed to get to see some of the others right on sunset on the beach and it was just what I came to take photos of, definitely not disappointed. We added our little bit of meat we had brought over from Rarotonga and had a BBQ all together. About 5 of the couples are staying there, 2 at our wee place, Shari and Chris just down the beach from us in a beautiful little holiday home and few more at the Pacific Resort the fancy accommodation….
Where I stayed
Paradise Cove Lodges – Amuri, Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Paradise indeed – Absolutely fantastic could not say more positive things about this place. Right on the beach and for some of the bungalows 1-3 and 8-10 the view is completely undisturbed apart from palm trees, for the others it is just a few simple huts in front but they are right on the beach. Small and compact but with everything you need and really great staff plus breakfast on the sand each morning really what more could you want… they will also help with organizing scooter hire etc.
Exploring Aitutaki
We were so comfortable in our little accommodation hut its just perfect and awoke to a lovely quite simple breakfast served not today but every other day right on the beach, cereal, toast, fresh fruits and little pancakes perfectly adequate to get you started.
Today was about starting the real relaxation. The morning was me catching up with Shari next door while Chris was off kite surfing and Cam snorkeled out to the reef in front of our accommodation. The have dug out an are right on the beach so you can actually swim which is really great and also keeps us off the coral and gives us a little coral wall to see the fish.
The afternoon was spent exploring so off we set on our little scooter to head around the Island there is quite a crisscross of roads so funnily enough it is easy to get a bit lost but not so much that you don’t love whatever you might come across and just enjoy the scenery and peaceful way of life.
We happened upon everyone else around at Aitutaki Village where the lagoon was white sand perfect and fantastic for swimming and the $5 ginswere keeping everyone happy.
Saturday night was Island night at Paradise Cove so we along with Geraldine and Brian took in the amazing, delicious, unbelievably yum buffet of Island food followed by what would have to be one the most entertaining and cute Island cultural shows you could ever see.
The performers were children and the show stolen by two 4 year old boys that were so adorable in their costumes and so enthusiastic in their dancing you could laugh and smile your way through the whole show. At the end these two young boys got on the drums and truly you could not believe the skill and rhythm from them. I took a million photos but sadly I did something very stupid putting them on my ipad and lost a heap of them, I was gutted. An excellent night and for $40 each it was far to cheap.
The next day was Sunday – church day so off a few of us headed to the ‘big white church’ in the village. Everyone coming was in their very best outfits and the children particularly looked absolutely beautiful and just streamed in from everywhere. We popped in with Tarns and her family and were blown away but the signing which is extremely organised in groups across the church starting a song and almost calling others in from other parts of the room till you are just filled with song all around you – it was extremely emotional.
That filled in the vast majority of the morning then Chris turned up saying a boat was heading out to Honeymoon Island if we wanted to go as he was off kite surfing again – you bet we were on for sure so camera into dry bag and snorkeling gear in hand we were ready and off.
Greg on of Tanya’s cousins husbands (everyone is related of course) had a small boat and took the three of us out to the Island, there is just a small Island, reef around it, palm trees in the middle and a bazillion birds nesting in the palms. I was in photography heaven the white sand, the blue green sea as well as chicks hiding under every palm tree. The chicks were every age even starting with the egg to tiny balls of fluff feathers to almost adult size but still with chick feathers. They are really entertaining birds as they have webbed feet so are very unstable landing and walking on land.
We opted for a quite night tonight and finished off some of the food we had brought with us watching yet another amazing sunset just off out balcony.
Great excitement the next morning as we were heading out on an all day lagoon cruise, well that was until we got up and found the wind too strong so its postponed till tomorrow the birthday day – that will make for a very interesting and long day.
Being freed up and also the weather not as hot we decide to head off to find the land Tarns will be building on, armed with instructions off we headed and were thrilled we did manage to find it so got a few pics of the whole area not quite sure which was the relevant bit.. When we walked up a bit higher up we could get great panoramas of the rest of the islands and lagoon it sure it is a pretty spot.
We finished the night having a sort out and clean up and heading to Aitutaki Village with everyone for tea. We arrived early to get the sun setting behind the hills and it was so worth it. Also enjoyed our gin on the water front before everyone else turned up. The meals were incredible everyone in good spirits, we are on holiday of course, so a scooter ride back in the dark to get ready for tomorrows huge day.
Best 50th Party (except your own!!)
Well I think today would be incredibly hard to top for a better birthday kicking off with a Lagoon trip and finishing the night with fire dancers!!
The weather dawned much brighter so we all gathered for our Lagoon cruise with Teking who entertained us for the day – we were out on the water from around 9:30 till about 4.
During that time, we took in 3 snorkeling places with amazing coral, huge numbers of clams, massive fish and absolutely incredible scenery
white white white sand as far as you can see and every shade of aqua blue water. We made our second visit to Honeymoon Island and Maina right beside it as well as walking from a sand bar through the sea to One Foot Island where you can have your passport stamped.
That is not to mention the delicious island food spread bar-b-que for lunch – the curried paw paw was the big hit of the day and massive tuna steaks that were to die for. The day was stunning, beautiful weather, so much fun with a big crowd of friends. We arrived back a bit tired so time for a quick rest and to get our glad rags on for the birthday party at the Fishing Club.
The locals put on incredible Island barbecue for dinner, our third and we could eat it every night it is soooo yum. Then the highlight of the night started with a cultural group setting up outside. Wow just too hard to describe the skill and entertainment value of the girls/women with their incredible hip movements to the boys/men with their high high energy dances followed by awe inspiring fire dancing… I am running out of ’adjectives’ to describe this amazing place.
At the end we offered to email any photos but they misunderstood us and thought we wanted a group photo, what a great misunderstanding it was awesome to see the whole group together complete with Tanya on a fire dancers knee!!.
I did I try very hard to get some good photos but it did challenge my skills a little in the dark with such quick movements. The rest of the night was full of dancing, laughing and enjoying celebrating with such a great friend – what a 50th!!
Last days in Paradise
The day people started to slowly leave, we decided on a quiet one though it did start with an early scooter up to the lookout behind our accommodation to see the sun rise. Not the best of mornings as quite cloudy but the view was certainly worth it a full 360 view from the top.
Next stop was Vaitau school with all our books and bits and pieces to donate. The kids all sang for us and we each introduced ourselves to them with where we come from and what we do. The were so adorable it was a real highlight and I hope the gifts even if small were appreciated, I think they were as the front row kept trying to select things from the pile laid out.
Rest of the day was a bit of visiting with people, saying goodbye to those leaving the next day which was most of the group and one more visit back to Aitutaki village to use up our nibbles. Sad this trip is almost over.
The last full day was used to pack up, read books, and take photos of the lovely white and black heron that hangs outside our accommodation followed by a late lunch at Koru café about sums up the day.
We did find an incredible coral collecting beach just behind the golf club so spent some hours combing the beach and adding to the coral Shari and I had been collecting, not sure we will get it back into NZ but worth trying. We also popped into the marine research centre on the way back where there were tanks of clams of every colour and shade, along with a stone fish which we jokingly wondered if it was the watch dog of tank.we were planning to eat out but ended up just finishing off our food and going for a big walk along the beach and were treated with an incredible red and orange sky, a wedding on the beach and more antics of the herons. We will miss Aitutaki and not sure we will get back as the extra flight makes it a bit more expensive but it has been a real experience and one of our most relaxing holidays.
Last morning and today was an early start to return the scooter and catch our flight out to Raratonga, we had from 10am Friday until 3am Saturday morning to fill in… We had hoped to get a car and join the others scattered around the island, it was a bit wet for a scooter, but no free cars we could easily leave at the airport but Rarotonga rentals is the place to book if you need this. There were also no rooms free close by but we were made incredibly welcome at the Islander hotel right opposite the airport so hung out there all day and night. We could not complement them, enough we did buy food but they never made us feel in the way even though they had two events in the evening one a quiz night for miss Cook Islands!! We both braced ourselves for it to be awful but really it wasn’t. I wondered into town for a while and got the bus back and cam got a bit of work done. We could have used the pool as well but was. It really that warm and flying home with wet togs no fun.
The time went strangely quick and we were on our flight home and saying goodbye to an incredible holiday. I would say for sure we will be back.