This is a blog transferred over from a now closed blog site TravelPod, its largely for memories for the family but there might be some interest for others travelling to Saba
A few days in Singapore
Well we are on our way and boy what a convoluted way to get to Singapore – Christchurch check in 7am to Auckland for a 4 hour wait then to Sydney for a short break before arriving in Singapore about 24 hours after we all woke in the morning!! yay to Qantas rescheduling. The start was interesting setting a recording breaking ‘long’ check in in CHCH – cause they couldn’t find us confirmed on the flight therefore sorting that and organising seating so we weren’t all spread around the aircraft, checking our primas cooker to check there was no gas in our luggage (which of course there was not) we were just in time to board and had a long queue of frustrated travelers behind us!!. We just found it amusing and have to say from there on in the flights and Qantas staff were great.
We arrived in Singapore to find uncle Mike waiting and sent the kids out to say hi while we waited for the bags and amusingly watched him walk right past them – they have grown a bit since the last visit! We have a couple of nights here in Singapore. After a reasonable sleep Cam took the kids down for a swim at the apartment complex pool. Well that is it they are hooked, better than any resort with pool, playground, tennis and squash courts and of course warm warm weather they just want to stay here!! We might end up coming back a day or so earlier.
It was time to go exploring, one step outside the complex and we were soaked through from the heat and humidity – but I suppose we better get use to it as this is it for the next 3 weeks. We went for a walk around the river and then headed off to the Singapore Flyer – bigger than the London eye we are told. It was great way to see Singapore and made all the better by a huge thunderstorm, such that they stopped letting anyone else on. The skyline with the rolling dark thunder clouds coming in and fork lightening was just stunning. We kept trying to catch the lightening on camera but although it was happening a few times every minute capturing it proved elusive!
The afternoon was spent back at the pool in the apartment, napping and chatting. Out for tea at a local hawkers market where we got way too much food including somehow getting three chili crab orderings when looking for just one to try – Cam, Mike and I made short work of that though. Had a stroll round the city and then the girls crashed, Mike was quite amused at kids wanting to go to bed when usually they just want to stay up. Anyhow an early night for all and up in time to head to the airport at 7 – quite civilised for us.
Heading off now on Tiger air to Kota Kinabalu and no plans at all when we arrive so I wonder where we will end up tonight.!!!!!!
Kota Kinabalu and snorkeling
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Arrived with no drama on Tiger Air into Kota Kinabalu (KK). I think Mike the “seasoned traveler” was mildly amused by our rush to be at the airport way too early – and concern that he was having trouble getting a taxi. I accosted a poor man in a 8 seater to share it as otherwise we need two taxis and none seemed to be arriving but I think we scared the driver off!! anyhow 2 taxi’s turned up and got us there is plenty of time.
On the tarmac we were told there was a unknown technical issue so had to turn back to the terminal only to be told 5 minutes later that the ‘light indicating the technical error was gone so we could now legally leave” hmmmm not sure about that. Cam noted the pilot had a kiwi accent so had probably got out some number eight wire across the fuse box.
Anyhow we arrived safely in KK and got a taxi into town. We expected lots of touting at the airport but there was none at all and you had to buy a coupon inside to get a taxi. Not having accommodation booked we went to one recommended by the Lonely Planet but were not impressed with either price or cleanness so we picked up our bags and headed to a more abundant area of backpackers. Cam was parked under a tree with the bags while Anna and I were sent to scout. Anna found the best deal and bargained them down, 1 room for us all, own bathroom, tv, fridge, aircon and great view for 130RM (very easy to sort currency just halve the RM to get $NZ). Quite hard to find somewhere happy to take 5 and not charge a mile more for each extra person. Actually the place, Hotel Mandarin,is quite old and a bit run down but clean and with all the above plus close to everything we are very happy, it is after all only a place to crash. It does not have internet but there is free wireless from our room from presumably another hotel!
An afternoon spent exploring the city found us enjoying great food and an exploration of the local daily markets. The markets were just finishing but were really interesting, amazing array of meat, veges and spices etc but the best thing was there was absolutely no hassling, clearly the market was not for the tourists and we were the novelty. The packing up was amazing it just looked like a pile of metal scrape but it was all the stalls broken down and being packed away, there were plenty of curious sights including a chicken chase – poor thing probably thought it was free – I was tempted to join in but just stood watching while Anna took lots of photos!
We had read a few blogs saying KK is old and dirty, but actually we love it as it is not set up for tourists it is simply a buzzing main city of Saba with heaps of character. The wired thing is the transition between different parts, take two steps from the local markets and you are in a fancy bar with large shopping center and starbucks over the road – a bizarre transition of old and new.
Day 2 in KK and we all managed to sleep on the two huge double beds. We did all wake at 4, have a shuffle around and get back to sleep for a few more hours so we are certainly catching up now. Huge excitement today as we are heading of to Sapi Island to go snorkelling. All packed up we need to follow Cam around to a pancake place he was determined to fine, he tracked something down and it was all in Malaysian and once again we were the novelty. Anyhow 6 pancakes (complete with curry dipping sauces), two gado gado and a drink for everyone later we parted with 20RM! It was delicious so I am sure we will be back.
Next stop was the ferry terminal but we were stopped en route by a local to “just go in my boat” we were not too sure so just headed off to the terminal taking a shortcut around the sea frontage that looked a bit like a construction site – actually it did lead to a construction site for a huge new shopping complex and right beside it was shanty town. We had to turn back but not before a naked local boy excitedly showed us the fish he had just caught – not sure if we were suppose to buy it but it was like a sardine!! As we retraced our steps the boat man came up to lead us to the terminal – its a shame when you feel nervous of his intentions as it turned out he was just being helpful and took us the the normal booking terminal and got us sorted for an excellent day out. We went with Borneo Ferry group and you just turn up and pay then get on a boat when enough people turn up and head out. We have nick named KK plus plus. While everything is cheap it is also plus this and plus that. So for one adults it was 18RM, then somewhere else for RM6 for terminal fee then RM15 to hire snorkeling gear then on the island RM10 national park fee! Still really quite cheap but quite funny as you are never sure when it is going to stop.
The boat trip started fine but about 1km out the boat stopped and the many attempts to get it going again seemed in vain – everyone was in good humor but just wondering what the next step might be when it burst into life and off we went (first the plane and now the boat is it us?). The Island is just 15 mins away and has one small beach with roped off areas to snorkel. It may not look like much but wow once you work to go out past the first markers and into the second area it was just fantastic. Huge variety of fish, gorgeous coral and not too many people. Most stay close to the shore where the coral is dead. Anna, Lara and I also went for a great walk over the Island and the views were amazing. We were there from 9:30 to 4 and the day flew by. The only negative was a roaming old boar that turned up rooting around in all the rubbish bins, everyone thought he was really funny but if he came anywhere near our table I was chasing him away – I have never seen anything so ugly with a beard, and that is saying something!!
So now we are settled back in our room and covering each other in Aloe Vera, I have never seen such bad sun burn, Holly particularly looks seriously bad. We had screened up well but obviously not well enough. I think tomorrow might be a quite day exploring KK.
Mandarin Hotel – No. 138 Gaya Street, Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
Leaving Kota Kinabalu off to Samporna
Thursday, April 9, 2009
KK day 3 and wow we did not realise how bad the sun burn was, especially on Holly – the tube of Aloe Vera did not last long and she was also feeling quite seedy so it was quiet time in a cool hotel room for her with only a few outings. I would say a good lesson for us all but it is not like we did not know that a full day in crystal clear water was going to have this effect. We have all bought better covering for next time….. Actually it was quite nice to just have a quiet day exploring KK a bit more and looking into the next stage of our journey. Surprisingly it is quite hard to find information that was not ridiculous expensive packages so Cam started accosting any European tourist to ask what they had been doing, this proved much more fruitful and we picked up a few ideas. We also sorted out a few hotel options for coming back to make it a bit easier so three options; the one we are at, 1 City and Kota Kinabalu backpackers, all looked reasonable and clean and KK backpackers was really helpful with advice also. They put us onto a place in Semporna called www.singamata.com which we have tentatively booked for a few days, it looks amazing with chalets over the sea. We just hope that a) they have space and b) it is as good as it looks. Cam and Anna also checked out the Mt Kinabalu climb but it is booked out for all of April,we left our number and will just see what turns up in term of cancellations.
We had a very interesting afternoon yesterday catching up with Cam’s Aunt Robin from Perth (Mary’s sister). Amazingly she was holidaying in the very flash Shangri La Tangjun Aru at exactly the same time we were here. We last saw Robin 7 years ago so there was lots of catching up to do and the girls enjoyed collecting a few stories about Gran as well!! We had a lovely meal out here, a step or two up from our backpacking.
This morning it was pack up time, breakfast for $4NZ for all of us (another awesome roti stall) and a taxi to the airport to fly to Tawau (fantastic views of the coral reefs and Mt Kinabalu again) and then who knows what……….. we’ll see the next entry I had hoped to send this entry before going to sea but no time so no Internet for at least 2 days.
Semporna to Singamata
Friday, April 10, 2009
Well it turns out that yes they did have room and it is as amazing as we hoped, so if you are ever heading to Semporna for diving, especially with kids you have to come to Singamata. Cam did have a chance to drop into a few places to check out their deals but none were even close, especially with the kids. He also sussed out if there was any space on Sipadan (where only around 80 people a day are allowed so you have to book way in advance). We have our name down for cancellations so we will see what comes up, there are certainly plenty of other really awesome places and we knew not booking ahead was a risk.
Anyhow Vicky from Singamata met us and the deal looked as we expected, she got the boat to come get us right then and there – in 10 short minutes we were on a little paradise out of the town and on a floating resort like place, restaurant, dive training site, accommodation and outdoor aquarium with stingrays and sharks just feet away. The place is amazing and they have put us in a room all together but everyone has a bed to themselves which is a great relief for those of us who have had to share with Lara. Small she may be but she sleeps like a snow angel and takes up the whole bed!!
The place is really clean and includes all our meals and diving (up to 7 dives)/snorkeling for the next two days for RM350 for Cam and I and a family friendly price for the girls. From your chalet you just drop into the water and start snorkeling it is just amazing. It is fairly shallow in places so the fish are not large but very colourful as is the coral. The really cool thing though is they have this a netted space to snorkel which is full with huge fish (as big as Lara) and they feed them when you are in there so all these fish just come all around you – it is truly an awesome experience.
Anna is thinking of doing a dive course which I think would be awesome for her. Everyone is very very excited as this is just such a unique place. Its quite hard to describe but very like the website a real paradise and with a full moon coming up and amazing sunset tonight you can imagine never wanting to leave.
Cam and I did our first dive this evening just to get ourselves back into it, it was just off the chalet about 12m deep so really just a chance to tune ourselves up but we still saw amazing sights (blow fish, lion fish, banded Boxer shrimps, amazing bright purple and blue nudibranch, schools of fish I can’t name and about another 20 varieties.
Dinner (all included) was a whole fish cooked in a delicious sweet and sour sauce just beautiful, honestly I at last feel relaxed and on holiday and am driving the girls mad by saying “wow can you believe we found this place” and “don’t you love this place” every 2 minutes!!
Day 2 Singamata
Well it was a bit of a warm night and we just slept with the doors all open, sea lapping under the chalet and fan in the ceiling. We mostly were well rested and very excited about a full days diving around the islands. Anna has been chatting to her German instructor and negotiated a good price with Vicky to do the full padi course while she is here. What a cool way to do it her first try dive today she immediately spotted a turtle, one on one tutoring in a tropical paradise and what better way to spend her hard earned money. Cam and I went off with our personal guide Romie who seems to be able to spots things out of just nowhere and the diving was the best we have ever done, clear water down to 20 meters, 5 large – like really big – turtles, rays, just too much to mention its all a bit overwhelming actually. Our second dive was not too sucessful as about 35 mins into it I got a bit disorientated and shot to the surface! For anyone who has dived they know that is not a good thing, I have no idea what happened but I must have inflated instead of deflated my BCD, it was actually quite scary but luckily we were not too deep so I am fine but now super super careful about what I am doing…… which I was anyhow i thought.
The island we dived on was called Sibuan and was like this mini island surrounded by coral and white sand, on the island was palm trees and very small settlement of locals (half a dozen houses), we had to present our information to a very non conspicuous military site first before we could dive.
We were back at the resort for lunch and the girls just hung out, Anna started studying her theory for Padi and Cam and I did our final dive for the day (we can do a night one but too tired, maybe another night). This time we were out for nearly an hour just off the resort. The visibility is not as good but it really makes you stop and look at things, lots of shrimp, one I dubbed the helicopter fish, a long stick like sea horse and so on and so on (please skip all of this is you are bored but it’s like my diary as well and I just feel the need to capture the whole feeling of this place. Tonights tea was once again delicious, a bbq on the deck, that Cam just had to help with! There was whole fish, crab, lamb, chicken, hotdog sticks just endless beautiful food.
We are staying another night now so Anna can finish her Padi – the final bill is going to be pretty big but wow what value for money it is just too good. Tomorrow Mabul which is one of the very popular islands so hopefully it will be good.
Day 3 Singamata
Another good night with amazing sunset and then fab sunrise, the local staff hardly notice it anymore. We were all set for our dive at Mabul, we have read lots of variable things about it and were originally looking at staying there at the backpackers so are very keen to check it out.
We had to wait for a few new guests so were away after 9 this morning and off we set with a full boat of divers and snorkelers for a long ride – at least an hour. We went for about 5 mins and the heavens opened up and boy did it bucket down, it was just incredible. We were all in togs so it did not matter much but it wasn’t long before you could see nothing at all. After about an hour the driver and Romie looked a little concerned as to where to go, so there we were stopped in the middle of the sea with no visibility, no compass, and maybe pirates around (well not really but it added to the suspense) luckily everyone just saw it as an adventure and we managed to find some fishermen to ask. There was three men on this tiny boat in the middle of no where and one of them in is see through undies only doing strongman impersonations – it was truly hilarious. We thought maybe we had all been dumped on the next series of “Survivor Borneo”. And then suddenly the sky cleared and not far in front was the Island we were heading for. So they clearly did know where they were going but just got a bit concerned with a boat full of tourists.
The Island is amazing, this very fancy resort is right over the sea and then just behind it the houses of the local people and then the backpackers. The backpackers looked really nice and clean and close to the water though not over it, a few people who have some from Mabul to Singamata said it was very noisy and full of young people so I suppose that is good if that is what you are after but Singamata is way better for us and most of the guests here (many of whom are also young).
Anyhow dive one was just under the resorts and through these wrecks, largely man made, but full of barnacles and the likes now. The sea life was amazing and this time it was moray eels, a huge cuttlefish that looked like it had just walked off the set of Futurama, and just too many more to mention some quite huge. But the most mind blowing things was 1000 Jack fish swimming around in a spiral inside what looked a bit like an intricate jungle gym – it was quite mesmerizing like you were watching some weird ritual that you could not make out.
Anna is full on diving now which is so cool so we were all down there together with her also learning and practicing a few buoyancy skills but she and Nic the instructor were to distracted with the amazing sea life at times I think, but what better place to practice your “hover” than watching the Jack fish.
The girls stayed above and did their snorkeling with some other guests keeping an eye on them, they were very excited seeing a sting ray, eels, sea snake etc.
After a short break on the shore we had our second dive under an old oil rig that had been placed there for accommodation – truly an eyesore from the shore. The current here was really really strong so we had to work our way down a rope to the bottom and work really hard to stay together as a group. It was a good dive but not as good as the first but still we say some amazing rock fish one just like a sting ray and so hard to spot, lots of quite big fish and a big spotty puffer fish. What is so excellent here is that every dive is different so there is just no way you ever want to stop – so it is another Island tomorrow!!!
It was a huge day though and we did not get back for lunch till 4pm!! boy were we starving by then but after lunch is was straight into the aquarium for a snorkel, this amazing leopard moray ell was out today. Then while we were all snorkeling down one end they fed the fish – wow this is just so hard to describe but you are in with all these big fish and they are eating right in front of your mask and you are just touching them constantly – way way cool!
The other guests here are great, everyone very friendly and we are working out lots for our next trip. There is a couple of you brits who have been great with the kids and especially when we have been diving they have been snorkeling with them. The staff are really friendly and Santi and the other women have been great with the kids.
We finished the day with a night dive with our trusty guide Romie again – how he found these amazing hermit crabs, cuttlefish, shrimps etc etc in the dark I don’t know. It is such an awesome feeling being under the sea in the dark with just a torch having no idea what you might come across.
Day 4 Singamata and this has to end sometime soon so today is check out day but not before our two dives at Mantabuan Island. A full boat load today and Anna off out to have her first dive as a fully fledged Padi diver!! she sat the exam last night in what has been quite a whirlwind with a private tutor but she passed with flying colours. So yay she can be my buddy today and Cam got ditched to dive with another guy. Once again just stunning, we dropped down directly onto a beautiful swimming turtle and proceeded to see at least another 8 one of which was as big as Anna – just mind blowing. Actually I am almost dived out now if that could be possible it is just sensory overload and I spent quite a lot of this dive just exploring the coral and life amongst it. You spend so much time looking at the big stuff that you miss all the beauty in the small things.
The girls had a fantastic snorkel and saw heaps of turtles too as well as stingrays and thousands of fish including a huge school of barracudas, truly an experience they will never forget.
So we are heading into Semporna town tonight and shouting ourselves a stay at a nice hotel in town with a pool (though how the kids can go near anymore water I don’t know) and then it is off to the jungle for our next adventure we hope.
Off to Sandakan
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
A lovely cool night in proper sheets last night and we all crashed. Sam and Anna the brits we have hooked up with had tea with us and then Holly shared their room to spread us all out a bit – I think they have enjoyed being with a family for a short while and they are also off to NZ soon so gave them plenty of advice and ideas. Anyhow it was up at 6:30am to get down to the bus station to organise our bus and boy the heavens had truly opened, luckily Cam had packed the pack covers so most of our gear was dry. Once it stopped we actally had quite an interesting time waiting for the bus to arrive, wondering if it was a good as they kept telling us, and buying our lunch at the stalls around the bus area. Fried banana, fried bread, waffles, bananas etc kept hunger at bay until the bus arrived and indeed it was very nice and comfortable, fully air conditioned. Our only one concern getting ready to go was Anna did not have her Padi final paper work, Nic the instructor had been out diving when we left yesterday so we had not been able to get it all finished. Anyhow Vicky the lady from Singamata said it was close so I got her to talk to the bus driver to make sure they waited and sure enough the paper work turned up with time to spare and we set off after an amazing time in Semporna. The one thing i will say though is you would not want to stay long in Semporna town unless you were out diving every day. There is nothing to do and we read of it being described as a “dive”(excuse the pun),”dump” and “dirty” and while I never like to say anything negative truly you could describe it no other way – oh yes except “smelly” as Holly would say.
The bus trip was around 5 hours as the roads were really busy but it was good and comfortable. We had hoped to go to Sukau which would have been a bit closer to the jungles as Sandakan seems to mean we will be backtracking but there is no simple way to get there and with there being 5 of us and no ages of time we have to stick to main tracks. The kids are laughing at my poor memory of name’s of the places we are going to but you try this – We have just been in ‘Semporna’ staying at ‘Singamata’ going to the Island of ‘Sibuan’ to dive but really wanting to dive at ‘Sipadan’ then today we are heading to ‘Sandakan’ but really wanted to go to ‘Sukau’ and then next stop ‘Sepilok’ to see the Orangatans!! certainly easy to get it wrong.
Anyhow we arrived safely at Sandakan and decide to leave the backpackers alone for a night and for just over double the price (but still cheap) we are in a really nice hotel with proper showers (fantastic) and adjoining rooms with a sea view. Really nice to have a treat occasionally and after the last 4-5 days we are all pretty tired. So a quiet day tomorrow I think and then Orangutans and the jungle for a stay which we will sort out tomorrow as there seems to be a few options.
We had a lovely meal at the Swiss hotel and meal at their restaurant that was also really cheap – food is the most consistently cheap things here it is amazing. We also found another great local roti resturant with the most amazing curries as well so made the most of that for a late lunch after a really really nice sleep in.
In the morning we decided to call a Mr Agi who does tours for only 5 people, this sounded really appealing to us and would also include the caves at Gomantong (will check spelling later) which we are really keen to see. Anyhow he came to our hotel, took us through the itinerary and then suggested this amazing place in Sipalong for the night. It is called Paganakan and the rooms are all in the jungle – well the edge of it anyhow and a few palm trees but it is really lovely and peaceful and we are in this long house with about 20 bunks all to ourselves, it is really really nice and Anton the guy who runs it is really really friendly. It is just a few minutes drive from the Organgutan sancturary so they just drop you when you need to go. Breakfast is included but you have to buy other meals but the prices are still really good.
So next stop was at last to the Orangutans – wow this was what I had been waiting for and we were told that the best time was the morning but we hadn’t be able to make it so we decided to try the afternoon and we still had a back up of tomorrow morning if we had no luck. It closes during the middle of the day and we were there at one so we needed to hang out a bit before hand but at 2pm it opened and through we went to wait for the 3pm feed. It is just lovely you walk through an easy wooden walk way in the jungle and stop at the feeding platforms that are just there right in front of you in the jungle, no fences or barriers and I heard from some that in the morning they just came along on the railings.
Anyhow 3pm arrived and we had been well entertained by the opening act of heaps of macaw monkeys, which were actually really cute, but no Orangutans. We heard them calling them and banging tins to attract them but they were obviously having a lovely sleep – then just as we were thinking it would not happen the ropes start really swinging and everyone is pointing and a beautiful female with her baby arrives. It is so worth the wait of over an hour in intense heat, she arrived on the platform just in front of where we were and then was joined by a another friend. They are just amazingly beautiful creatures and the baby was such a treat. Mum was just hanging about and the baby just clinging on then the two adults started playing. It was such a lovely treat to watch them just hanging out and then after the feeding people left but they were still playing around so we were in no hurry to go and just stayed until they wandered off.
So back to the lodgings to just hang out and relax before our jungle tour tomorrow – probably no more blogs for a few days.
Suka and to the jungle
Thursday, April 16, 2009
What a fun night in our longhouse, a bit warm but we coped fine. Had we managed to book ahead they had these awesome rooms, one double bed and one bunk with air conditiong and an almost outdoor shower. I would recommend this place to anyone and Anton the owner was just great and very obliging.
We woke the next morning very excited about our trip to the jungle with Mr Aji but I just had this compelling need to go back for the morning feeding of the Orangutans. Sometimes you just know you have to do something and if you don’t you will regret it and this was one of those things. So a quick call to Aji who said a slightly later departure would be ok. Anton was taking some others down to the sanctuary so Holly and i jumped on the back of his truck and headed down with them. Well I was not disappointed, we walked in and there was one just sitting on the rail no more than a few feet from us, and another eight arrived for the feeding including two mums and babies. It was just beyond fantastic. I had promised the others we would not hold them up so we quickly headed out to join them only to be held up by about 30 monkeys on the railings including an alpha mail snarling at us (and quite a pile up of tourists by then) anyway slow and steady made it through (a bit like meeting a herd of sheep in New Zealand) and we were off to the jungle in a car all kited up in jungle material…..
First stop was the Gomantong Caves just out of Sukau. You take a short drive in through the jungle and then walk 20 minutes to the caves where the workers go up ladders 80 feet high to retrieve the swallows nests. The cave itself is an amazing structure let alone the activity within. We were lucky enough to be there while they were still harvesting but there was only a day or so to go so it was just a lucky chance – you really have to see it to appreciate the scale of the task of the workers. Wandering out Aji managed to spot us some red monkeys, our first of many wild creatures and driving in he spotted a black hawk – bodes well for the next few days.
Next stop was our accommodation on the Kinabatangan river (Green View B&B). Fairly basic but given we were only sleeping there and planning to spend the rest of our short visit in the jungle that was fine. Some people had been there four to six days but even I don’t think I would have liked that and can cope with quite a bit – it was clean but we didn’t have air conditioning and I am just sick of being really really really hot and sticky.
We had a delicious late lunch and then got on our boat with Aji the driver and just us. We have heard about all these tours of boats full of people going around together and lots of noise and difficulty to see the animals so we were feeling pretty pleased with our choice and we did not see too many other boats where we went and when we (well actually they) spotted something they just puttered up slowly underneath for us to sit and watch. We were put for about three and bit hours out, until a beautiful sunset and saw otters, macaw monkeys, proboscis monkeys, silver tailed monkeys, lizards, small crocodile, a huge oriental white billed hornbill, herons. Sadly no wild orangutans or pygmy elephants but we know they are there as others staying at the lodging had seen them. Most others staying with us also had single guides and it really seems the way to go as you can decide what it is you want to do and they also often know the area best. The trip was not cheap though even with a discount for Holly and Lara so we could really only do one night two days. We did decide though to add on a night boat safari – wow it was really worth it. You got up to within stroking distance of sleeping birds, kingfishers, herons, etc etc etc we also saw some more proboscis monkeys, another crocodile. The best bit was when they turned off the spot lights and motor on the boat and we just sat there in the dark, silent jungle with the lapping water – it was very cool.
The next morning was our jungle walk – yay we had all been waiting for this and our encounter with the dreaded leaches. Aji had told us not to waste money on leach socks and then we sat down in the morning to get ready there he was pulling on his own leach socks! Boy did we give him a hard time – but Anna and Cam had their gaters for climbing and a lady gave lara a pair so we were ready to head off. No great expectations this morning and only a little disappointment at not having seen an Orangutan but we at least knew they were there somewhere. Anyhow we parked the car at the beginning of the walk and noticed some people we thought bird watching until I saw the tree move a really long way for a bird! Yes indeed it was a wild Orangutan and not only that it also had a baby …. man the experiences just keep coming. We walked a bit through the bush trying to see her better and she was off swinging through the trees. Well that was us fully satisfied and poor Lara who had missed out on going back to the sanctuary was very very happy. The rest of the walk was really lovely through the bush but quite uneventful expect for the leaches – you only have to look from the ground to 1m said Aji so Lara got the best one on her tummy but otherwise they all flicked off fine and the only person with any blood on them at the end was Arji – through his leach proof socks, that will show you.
So a quick breaky and then clean up time before being taken back to the junction outside Sandakan to catch our bus to the Kinabalu National Park
Mt Kinabalu and surrounds
Friday, April 17, 2009
After being dropped off by Mr Aji at the junction we had over 2 hours to wait for our bus. It was extremely hot and humid so we parked ourselves in a little cafe and proceeded to buy them out of cold water and ice creams. We were hopeful of catching the earlier bus so Cam and Anna took shifts standing on the side of the road and flagging down any likely bus – sometimes it was a bit tricky to tell which was ours, I was getting a bit nervous we would even find the one we were booked on!! It would be true to say I have been in better humor but Cam and Anna made up for it by almost seeing it as a game and just kept at it. Anyhow our bus did at last arrive almost exactly on time, so not sure what happened to the earlier one, and we were off to the Mt Kinabalu. The bus was not quite as tidy as the previous one we were on but it was well air conditioned so there were no complaints.
We had no plans once we arrived at the Mt Kinabalu national park, accept that Cam and Anna were keen to try and walk it in a day since they could not get a booking to stay overnight. On the bus ride Cam started reading the lonely planet again and the first piece of advice was not to turn up at the mountain without accommodation booked as it is really tight!! Yay, just the bit of info it would have been handy to have known before hand! The bus was running late so they literally threw us and a our bags off at the gate at 5pm, with dusk just starting. We had a two min walk up the hill to the lodge and the first thing we find out is that only 4 people a day are allowed to do a day walk and we had missed the ranger so a) there was no space and b) no one to talk to. Once again unsure how, Cam had not got this key piece of information sorted. The next thing was to hunt for accommodation, yep there was a room – four beds and no bathroom for RM660!!!! Ok by this time I was not at all impressed and Anna was finding it all quite amusing and trying to save Dad from the inevitable dressing down that was brewing. The one saving grace was Cam himself had got a bit nervous (about a dressing down not the welfare of his family) while on the bus and had hurriedly scribbled down some phone numbers for accommodation back along the road. Well he hit the jackpot with the second number – no problem to take all 5 of us, would drive up and get us from the park and the place is just amazing – we have taken two rooms at RM108 each including breakfast for us all and a spare bed for Lara. It is very flash and clean and tidy looks out on the Mountain and terraced hills surrounding it – so alls well that ends well and I think we will camp our here for a few days. The hotel is about 10 min from the park in Kundasang and called “The Cottage Hotel”. Cam and Anna have pretty much given up on the mountain now – it is just too tricky to organise at short notice unless you are lucky enough to get a cancellation and even then it is quite expensive to do.
We spent our first morning just cruising out at the village – pretty much the only Europeans here. They have a Friday market so the girls got their fill of shopping and we had lunch with the locals. The setting is just so peaceful and lovely and the atmosphere cooler and less humid – it is really really pleasant.
This afternoon we spent all catching up on ourselves. After moving every day for the last 4 nights this is a really treat to properly unpack and even get some washing done as we were all beginning to run out of clothes. Washing about half the price of KK so we did heaps. Holly and Lara discovered Disney channel in their room so OD’ed on that, Cam did a little work and Anna and I went to the Kundasang War Memorial. This was a commemoration to the many many Australians, British and Sabah soldiers – including 31 NZ who went of the marches from Sandakan to Ranau as prisoners of war of the Japanese. Of the 2500 prisoners only 6 survived that managed to escape and the atrocity of what happened to them was hard to imagine. It was very moving and we could not miss it with it being just down the road from our hotel with the NZ flag flying high.
Tomorrow we are hoping to head to Poring springs and the canopy walk but while this place is great the transportation anywhere is really hard and quite expensive. It is quite amazing really, we are one of the only Europeans around but still no one is trying to sell us anything or take us anywhere you almost need to talk them into it, quite bizarre but very enjoyable as we are not constantly hassled.
Poring springs and back to KK
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Breakfast this morning was a small buffet affair, this place is really good value and one of the best accommodation we have had in terms of facilities. We were well fed and then headed up the road to find transport to Poring Springs. This is the most difficult thing in Borneo – transport. You can wait at the minibuses until they are full – anything from a few minutes to I imagine well over an hour, or charter a vehicle at a variety of prices. Because there are 5 of us it is usually not too different to charter a vehicle so we had a man offer us a ride in a minivan for RM60. Seemed quite high but you are fairly stuck for options and even if you sit around looking disinterested the price does not come down!! Anyway it was a good half hours drive so actually the price was probably not too bad. Poring Springs is a very popular place with the locals and foreigners alike and was probably the most touristy place we have been but the upside of that was that it was really clean, first place we have seen no rubbish lying around.
One of the big attractions here is the canopy walkway which is literally a one man wide swing bridge suspended from the very top of the trees. It is really hard to capture in photos but you are very very high up (41m) and it is not all that stable so not for the faint hearted (ie me). We all did it though and the kids loved it. We also checked out a butterfly house and went on some lovely walks – here was a place that you could go on great long walks without needing a guide. The first walk was to a waterfall where everyone seemed to be getting in so that was all the encouragement Cam, Lara and Holly needed to get into togs and cool down. Afterwards they sat in the water while the tiny fish latched onto their skin and nibbled away!! Cam even managed to attract a leech as did Holly so they were very excited about that – they did not want to leave Borneo without a leech incident (well Cam anyhow, Holly would have been happy to have missed it). The final attraction of the day was the hot springs, once again Holly and Lara were keen to have a go and started off in the kids slide pool that was actually cold and then moved onto the hot baths. It is the weirdest set up, you run your own bath that takes up a quarter of a square and then when you are finished empty it and the next person starts… it takes ages to fill but that seems to be all part of the fun. We certainly had no trouble filling in a full day, found a really nice local lunch place just outside the gates and the girls got their fix of souvenir shopping .
About 4pm thought we better start trying to work out transport back as there did not seem many options about. I asked one guy “Steven”in a minivan who already had a full load but he took it on as his mission to find us a ride back – it was not looking good and I was getting a bit nervous about what the price would get to. All the local buses had gone back and we were not sure if they would be returning as this at least would get us to Ranau which is a closer town to where we were staying. Anyhow a taxi turned up and Steve organised for him to do one more trip out before the end of the day (he was based at Poring Springs) so we all piled in once again with the 4 of us in the back – I am not sure how much longer we can do this as some of these taxis are not that big! We got back to Kundasang in time for an early tea at our latest favourite roti and curry place and then spent the evening cruising out and packing. I am proud to say we still fit everything into the 3 big packs we took away though the girls are desperate to spend some more money and increase the luggage – actually shopping has not really been a big feature of the holiday thankfully but all that may change in Kuala Lumpur.
Our final morning at the mountain and it is really sad to be leaving, the setting here at the Cottage Hotel is just beautiful and the mountain this morning was magnificent, it also signals the last stage of our Borneo visit and it has been just one amazing experience after another. Anyhow the big challenge this morning was getting back to Kota Kinabalu (KK). Once again negotiating with taxis and vans but we decided our options were much better from the national park so we got a quick cheap ride up to the mountain. From there the plan was to wait by the side of the road and flag down a passing bus…sounds like fun! But actually the cost difference between that and chartering a van to take all five of us was relatively little for the hassle , RM20 each on the bus and RM150 to charter a van, so we went with the minibus option. The drive was great- views of the mountain from every direction and you just weave around the mountain roads – it is only 90km but takes nearly 2 hours. All was going really well until we were arriving in KK and the van got a flat tyre, Cam and our driver tried to fix it but the jack was broken. He called a friend and we were on our way again fairly quickly and got dropped off in the centre of town. I think these vans are quite controlled in terms of price and where they go so we decided to make our own way out to our hotel near the airport. We had to stop first for – wait for it – roti! and then a guy took us out for RM10 in his flash new ute, he worked for the transport department but I am sure he was a taxi driver (we have had this happen a few times but if the price is cheap like NZ$5 for us to get to our hotel we are not complaining……
The hotel was recommended by some people we met in Sandakan and it is great, we have a room with 5 beds, really spacious and cool, a swimming pool and breakfast included for RM160 – The Sea Park Condotel in Tanjung Aru. Apart from a walk for lunch we pretty much just hung out at the pool for the afternoon and spent a good few hours trying to sort out accommodation in Kuala Lumpua, boy there are just so many choices. We debated whether to have dinner here at the hotel or to head out to a night food market we had spotted during the day. The night food market won out and ended up being one of our favourite meals. You sit at a table and go order whatever you want, a bit like a food court I suppose, and then they come and find you at your table and you pay then. The range of food was fantastic but most of the family went for their first Western food for ages and had burgers and chips, Cam’s burger was the size of a dinner plate! They must have heard we are big eaters. Tomorrow is the local wildlife park before heading to the airport and KL.
Kota Kinabalu to Kuala lumpur
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Last day in Borneo and we all had a great night at Sea Park Condotel, amazing really how well the five of us can share a room, especially given there are plenty of snorers amongst us!! We decided to spend our last day at Loc Kawi Wildlife Park, about 15 mins from the Kota Kinabalu airport. We had decided when we arrived that this would be a good thing to do at the end to spot all the animals and birds we missed in the wild rather than see them first. It proved to be a great success with very few people about, so we almost had private animal feedings including the elephants which the girls got to feed numerous carrots in their hands. One elephant in particular was a real character and was playing with the staff in terms of feeding antics. There were lots of baby elephants and we just spent ages and ages watching them. The hornbills were amazing too. Even though we had seen a few in the wild, seeing them up close was a real treat. There were more Orangutans and Proboscis monkeys so everyone was very happy.
One highlight was a short show they put on. It was not all false and over done as some of these things can be and the animals were not out for too long. Lara got to be the helper for the Macaw bird’s tricks and then when the Orangutan came out they asked for a strong man to go up against him in a contest – well it was just too much for us girls not to point wildly at Cam sitting in the front row and sure enough he was selected. Knowing how competitive he is we knew we were in for a treat. The competition was to be the first to get into a coconut and drink the fluid. The Orangutan (Mogli) stood up and did a strong man impersonation when his side of the audience cheered so yes you guessed, so did Cam, we were all in hysterics. Then the competition began, Cam was like a man possessed tearing into the coconut and breaking into a huge sweat and Mogli was just sitting calmly down looking like he was not even participating, honestly the tears were flowing down our faces – but in the end four hands and teeth that are pretty sharp won out and Cam came a distant second…… He did get given the coconut though and later completed the task and the kids enjoyed the fruit of their father’s labour.
We got back in time for a quick dip and lunch at the hotel before heading to the airport and doing some last minute shopping to make sure we all headed home with a Sabah T-shirt. I am not sure where else you can buy a souvenir T-Shirt for NZ$10 at an airport or wildlife park. Holly and Lara also had some Ringits burning a hole in their pockets so had to purchase some cute monkey/orangutans.
We arrived into KL around 7:30pm and were trying to work out the best, and cheapest, way to get us all into town. The girls and I were sick of being stuck in the back of a taxi together especially for a 50 min drive so we opted for the express bus. It was very good, comfortable and only stopped once in KL Sentral we could then get a taxi for the last short ride to our hostel. We are staying at Pondok Lodge and have an airconditioned room with 5 beds for RM25 each – it comes with breakfast, has perfectly fine bathrooms and is centrally located. The hostel is quite quirky really with nice sitting areas with displays of local tribal items and paintings. We had decided in KL we were either going to splash out on a really flash hotel or spend the money elsewhere and have basic lodgings as we only really sleep here and spend all day out. We did walk into a few flash hotels but the problem is we need to get two rooms which makes it a bit ridiculous. We are working on a nice resort stay though for the last few days if we can work one out.
We all woke early the first morning so decided to head to the Petronas Towers to queue up for the limited tickets they give out each day. It is very variable some days they go in a few hours and then other days, like yesterday there were still the last few available around midday. Our tickets were for mid day so we spent the morning exploring the city centre and checking out the enormous Sung wei shopping centre. We only purchased a coffee – but oh wow did that taste great, our first decent coffee in a few weeks. The tour was good to take in the views, though presumably they are better from the sky tower but at RM50 for high tea we flagged that experience. You first had to sit through a really bad Petronas commercial – but hey thats all part of it!
The afternoon we headed to the Malaysian craft market which had been recommended by a few people to do our own batik silk painting. What a great way to fill in a few hours, we all did one and it was interesting to see the different styles and how well they all came out. Holly and I while waiting for the others struck up a conversation with a batik artist who was really interested in NZ and particularly the Haka – which we have struck a few times, actually at Poring Springs there was an All Black T-shirt which really amused us.
We could avoid it no longer it was time to hit the shops proper (Sung wei was just to see how others may spend there money!). Anna was beginning to get the shakes so off we went to the main shopping plaza’s – I ask you how many t-shirts can a girl truly own…. We started just after 4 and Cam and Lara headed back around 8 with Anna, Holly and I going through till 9:30! we just fell into bed and actually had brought very little, a watch for me, memory card for my wee computer (which has been just amazing on this trip), t-shirt or 3 for Anna and some ‘junk’ jewelery for Lara. Prices are not that great and we have collected very little on the trip so far. Holly and I were sussing out some cameras but they are cheaper at home.
Back at Pondok Lodge Cam had spotted some good looking resorts down the coast a bit so it looks like we might head that way tomorrow – we are really not big city people and need to get out of here (all except Anna that is who would happily stay on).
I will let you know how we get on with the next blog,
Where I stayed
Pondok Lodge – 20 Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Desaru resort, Malaysia
Indeed Cam and Lara did manage to find a resort on the web, quite close to Singapore on the West Coast – rooms were usually RM500 and they were being offered on wotif.com for around RM130 so that certainly looked likely for us. A search of some blogs came up with mixed reviews but the location and appeal of being out of the city won out so we decided to head there on Wednesday for three nights before heading to Mikes for the last few days. We thought the intrepid part of our journey had ended but boy if you have ever tried to catch a bus in Kuala Lumpa from the bus terminal near our place you would not believe it. We had been told we could get a bus directly to Desaru (where the resort is) but Cam came back just laughing that he had managed to get anything at all, there are like 40 different little cubby holes all in a row selling tickets to all over Malaysia, all asking to you ‘where you go’ ‘come to my bus’, all leaving at different times on a variety of buses and no way to really sus anything out for quality or comfort etc. Also they are likely to sell you a ticket to the right destination but not necessarily the next bus if their one goes a bit later and they want the sale. Honestly when we came back to catch the bus mid morning I was just in awe of the place and how it worked. We turned up to our counter and they gave us the number plate of the bus and the platform and time to be there and then we were off. Kota Tingii was our first destination and we had been told we would catch a bus easy there to Desaru so fingers crossed we set off.
The bus was comfortable enough and air-conditioned so we were quite happy, I actually really enjoy travel by bus. We arrived in Kota Tingii, quite a small town and the bus dropped us off about 3 km from the main town in a small bus station with absolutely no activity, hmm we couldn’t really see how the next leg was going to work and after lots of asking of very disinterested people we caught the local bus into the main township bus stop where there were buses going everywhere…. why would such a tiny place have two bus stations is beyond us, probably something to do with competition. We had missed the bus by 15 mins but another one came in an hour so that was all good. It was a great little place and we were back to being the only westerners which we love, no one spoke much English but we managed to find the bus and join a huge queue to get on there were definitely more people than seats on the bus as it seemed to be taking a huge number of school children either to or from school. The trip was over an hour so i jumped on and payed for us all not really having any idea what it would be and how to explain to the no english speaking driver but miming and holding up fingers works quite well. It was just RM15 for us all so clearly we were on some general local bus still it was really comfortable and air-conditioned not like most of the other ones.
The next trick was to work out where to get off, again language was a bit of a problem and its amazing how many signs there are that make you think you are somewhere before you are in the right place. We were trying to explain to Lara that if you got off by the ‘Welcome to Christchurch’ sign by Hornby then you would have a really long way to walk. Long and the short of it was we did make it off, there was a taxi sitting there (one of the two in the region we have now heard!) and we were 5 mins down the road to the ‘Pulai Desaru Beach’ resort. Not quite the direct route but it was a real adventure getting here, including Cam standing at the front of the bus for the last leg keeping an eye on our luggage as the side door where it was stowed under the bus didn’t close!!
Now we had made it to the Pulai we hoped it was going to be ok as there weren’t a lot of other options. First impressions boded well and the staff at the front desk were great. They upgraded us to a room with view and threw Lara in an extra bed, everyone got breaky included except Lara but they did not charge much (they clearly have not seen what she can eat!). The place is great. The rooms are adjoining and huge, room for a desk and couch, large bathroom and little kitchen area just with jug and fridge. There is a really great pool and then a few palms and a beautiful beach with water sports if you are that way inclined. We tried out a little snorkeling but not too much sea life. We wondered why it was so cheap but I think it is because it is a little tired now obviously great in its hey day but wow for the room size, facilities and ability to kick back and relax you can’t beat it for the price. Also it is empty, there are about 6 other people here, so there is no need to rush out and bags your deck chair. They have a lovely buffet breakfast included with the full range of Malay and Western food so we are all happy – I have definitely converted to rice for breakfast, lunch and dinner while on this holiday. I am not sure how they can do it all for so few guest (there must be more we haven’t seen yet). There is even a kids club but not really enough kids to get it going properly and Lara not too keen on her own. Presumably it gets really busy in the weekend when the Singaporians all come over on the ferry. Can’t see too much trouble filling in a few days here.
After just hanging by the pool this morning we decided to walk down the beach and suss out some of the other resorts. The one next door seems fairly flash and closed, the one further down is quite untidy but has cheap drinks which were very welcome on a hot day, then there were some Chalets which were truly awful so it looks like we have the pick of the bunch. Walking back the most enormous thunderstorm came up and the heavens opened – it was just fantastic walking along the beach getting soaked and watching millions of small rain drops just bouncing off the waters surface, I love the heavy rain here – probably because it passes so quickly. Lara and I were swimming in the sea with the rain falling, lightening flashing and thunder the loudest I have ever heard, it was magical, and just a little bit scary too.
So nearing the end now, a few nights here then back to Singapore before flying home. Spent the time just chilling out with Mike though we did also take in the night tour at Singapore Zoo. What a trip!!!
Sand & Sandals Desaru Beach Resort & Spa – \N, Kota Tinggi, MalaysiaPulai