First off this is long! And at this stage you are only reading part 1 of 3 (broken kind of into weeks). So to make it easier if you have been here before click straight through to the route and select the section your interested in.

If you are only interested in photos a selection are sprinkled through the blog but at the end of each week there is an album with a much wider choice of photos.

How did we do it?

First off, I have had my heart set on visiting the African continent since returning from my OE 30 years ago. I missed out on an overlander through Africa at that time instead traveling home to New Zealand via the Middle East (which was very cool by the way). Combine that with a love for photography and hearing about other amazing trips it was inevitable we would go sometime.  Exploring Namibia and Botswana was the choice for the mix of landscapes and wildlife. Also, not the most popular and over run destinations at this time.

The how was the next step. Self-drive especially in Namibia is fully possible but a little less easy for Botswana (though still doable). But did we really have the time and energy to organise it ourselves? So when Bora, of Merubisi Safaris, put out a call on his Instagram account for anyone keen to be his trial guests in his first year, my interest was piqued. 

Boras’ plan was to say where you want to go, get 4 people together and he would do the rest. That is itinerary, food, accommodation, game drives, etc. While not quite as cheap as self-drive this was very appealing as you literally just turn up. Over a period of months of questions, chats, googling if he was genuine, etc. etc. we committed along with a couple Bora connected us with from Cornwall, Carol and Mike. We all shared an interest in both the destination and photography and by chance the Sony brand. I won’t go into any more details, but I can say WatsApp ran hot in the final planning. This is us all (minus the chef) about half way through.

Exploring Namibia and Botswana -Getting there

15^th of September we boarded from Christchurch and flew via Singapore and Ethiopia to Windhoek in Namibia to begin the adventure. Avoiding South Africa due to a crazy visa requirement at the time – no longer relevant. We gave ourselves a few days to explore the city and catch our first sunset – wow! Windhoek is a very tidy and pretty city and we managed to celebrate my birthday in style at a local castle restaurant. This was also an opportunity to meet up with Carol and Mike properly after many online conversations. We could tell straight away this was going to be a great match of interests.

Cam and I also decided to take in a local game park that has a conservation focus, Naankuse. I laughingly called this my insurance visit so I could get shots in case we didn’t see anything in the wild – it was not necessary in hindsight but was still an awesome day out. We saw lions, cheetah, leopard, caracal, wild dogs, baboons on the tour and other animals around the restaurant waterhole.

We hired a 4WD for the day, after much difficulty as no one wanted to do a one day hire and headed out for breakfast at the park followed by a feeding game drive. The highlight for me was the Caracal. You don’t often see them in in the wild so I was happy with this sighting. There were two telling each other to keep their distance as they are usually solitary animals.

The route

I don’t quite have the skills yet to do a clickable map but in the meantime here is an approximation via google and some quick links below to navigate the completed parts

• Windhoek
• Namib Rand
• Sossusvlei
• Bulls Port
• Swakopmund

Each day I tried to capture the things listed below. To stop this getting horribly repetitive I will block the days together by the places we stayed each night. Things will be missing but it was fun each evening with everyone helping me complete this.

1. Where we stayed
2. What we saw
3. Tip of the day
4. Fact of the day

In advance of other tips this would be my first – keep a simple journal along the way. Doing this blog now a few months on would be so hard without it.

Day 1 – Windhoek to Windhoek

1. Where we stayed
   Daan Viljoen Game Lodge
2. What we saw
   Baboon, Kudu, Ostrich, Mouse bird, Red Eyed bulbul, Springbok, Warthog, Wildebeest and many more I didn’t capture
3. Tip of the day
   Always have a plan B
4. Fact of the day
   Namibia is the only commonwealth country that was not a British colony. Namibia was given to South Africa which was British.

Hmm not really the planned itinerary as we were supposed to be picked up and driven to Namib Rand but our host Bora had a bit of drama at the border between Botswana and Namibia. This was due to an intermediary not attending to the paperwork needed and some changed rules for operators. The two other members of the team Ras (guide) and Chris (cook) made it through and came to get us in Windhoek. We learnt fast that nothing is simple when due to slow local bureaucracy and a fridge repair the four of us (guests) spent most of the day hanging out at the hotel for the day. And then it was time to get in the truck.

You will see snippets along the way of how we traveled but the vehicle was amazing, fully closed up for long trips and then the windows dropped right down making it a wide open vehicle for safaris (you can see this in the photo of us all on the roof above). Complete with gimbals and monopods for everyone we were all set.

Once things were sorted it was too late to head off to Namib Rand, luckily Cam had googled a game reserve close to town that we went to for the night, Bora was now through the border and had hitched a ride on a truck to join us before we headed off in the morning.  The accommodation Daan Viljoen Game Lodge was amazing and all the stress was quickly forgotten as we swam in the pool, watched a warthog dig up the manicured grass, saw Wildebeest walk past as we had our first GnTs of the trip. It was also our first braai (BBQ) and Chris proved himself to be a fantastic chef – nice food, wine, great surroundings and plans to be away on the road at 7 in the morning meant we all went to bed very relaxed.

Days 2/3 – Namib Rand

1. Where we stayed
   Namib Rand Family Hideout
2. What we saw
   Amqua grouse, Dung Beetle. Tokotoko Beetle, Ludwig Buzzard, Ostrich, Oryx, Pale Chanting Ghost Hawk, Red hearte beast, Social weavers, Springbok, Squirrel, Zebra (plains)
   Also a Cape Fox and Bat-eared Fox in the dark
3. Tip of the day
   Get a light dry bag that easily covers your camera – perfect for sand-storms
4. Fact of the day
   Zebra are born with long legs which makes them less obvious to predators

The day started with an early breakfast and then picking up Bora who had spent the night at the gates to the wildlife park. Probably not how he wanted to join us but there was lots of laughter as we all joked that he did actually exist.

We soon worked out why we had not driven here in the late afternoon, the drive was really long and with the sunset around 7pm we would have missed so much. The first part of the drive was an ever-changing landscape and our first experience of long drives. Once we got in the Namib Rand area the landscape just blew us away (not for the last time) the colour of the sand seemed almost unreal. This was our first experience of calling out ‘stop’ ‘stop’ for photos and I didn’t think we would ever get to our destination.

We arrived at the little hideaway house we would be staying in and all the tiredness of the last few days just fell away. With a little waterhole out front, Oryx and Springbok all around and a flat desert that stretched out into the mountains in the distance it was perfect.

First game drives

Cornelius, the resident guide, took us out on our first game drive. We all piled up on the back of his truck and headed out. For many of us this first experience is still the top one. Maybe because it was the first but driving along seeing zebras play fighting, feeding their young and just playing in the late afternoon was a huge highlight. The animals against the red red sand provided so many photographic opportunities. As the sun began to drop, we headed to the dunes to capture it before joining Bora and Cornelius for bubbles and nibbles to celebrate the start of our adventures.

We had two nights here so as well as some stunning sunrises right out front, we also did more game drives either in our vehicle with Bora or Ras or with Cornelius. Driving ourselves there was a limited (but large) route we could take but with Corneilus we could get out further into the nature reserve. The landscape as much as the animals is what will stick with me from here. It is so vast and beautiful.

We had a few firsts as well. First time stuck in the sand; first time sorting out the seating arrangements and where we liked to be (pretty much anywhere worked); first picnics in the sand dunes; first dead animals and vultures. Bora included everything being true to his word. A big fridge sat in the front of the truck and you just helped yourself when you wanted something to drink. Snacks on demand as well. Also, the drives that Bora or Ras did not guide themselves were block booked so it was only us on them, this was a real bonus. And just look at this well stocked trailer.

Day 4 Namib to Sossusvlei 

1. Where we stayed
   Sesriem Oshana Campsite 
2. What we saw
   Oryx, Ostrich, Springbok, Zebra
3. Tip of the day
   If you want to get an early start on the sand dunes make sure you stay between the first and main park gates. The main gate is closed overnight and opens for the sunrise rush.
4. Fact of the day
   Ostrich can run up to 120 km an hour (how on earth do they not trip!)

Before leaving Namib Rand we had a stunning sunrise to enjoy and a short game drive. Final packing was done and we headed for the famous dunes and scenery of Sessriem. The mornings drive provided plenty more opportunities for getting the Oryx and Zebra against the red sands. We all laughed about being super keen to photograph every Oryx on day one but by day 3 it was only if the Oryx was in the perfect spot. Otherwise you just sat back and enjoyed it.

The desert landscapes were ever changing on the drive to Sossuvlei. Huge open spaces with hills coming out of them, rock formations, trees spaced out in varying distances. It just never got boring. Lunch and coffee stops along the way, including photography ones to capture the beauty of it made the long trip very bearable. Stops were for a bit of fun and Cam happy to do his star jumps. Chris and Ras were discussing the scenery maybe 🙂

Tonight was camping. What a great spot each campsite had its own little shower and toilet block. The two couples set up at one and the guys at the other. We didn’t have to worry about any set up or break down. The tents were erected and our gear was all ready for us when we got back from exploring.

Heading to the dunes

Bora took us out while camp was being set up. First past the jaw dropping sand dunes and then to Dead Vlei where the fossilised trees are. Around 600 years ago, the story goes, that after a flood the trees grew. But once the sand dunes moved blocking water and a drought came they lost access to water and died. They are certainly very impressive and the contrast of colours and shapes in the sand provided great photographic opportunities. We had the place pretty much to ourselves, which was very unexpected, but welcome.

The sky was deep blue the dunes were red and apart from a bit of a wind it was just perfect. We didn’t climb the dunes this day except for walking over them to Dead Vlei. We did work out where to come in the morning though. The dunes are named based on how many km’s from the gate. Dune 45 is the most instagramable. We choose an equally beautiful and not crowded one for our visit the next morning.

As we were leaving the wind was beginning to pick up. This made us a little worried we would not get to do our hot air balloon experience the next morning. That fear was confirmed – no balloon ride tomorrow. We had a great night though sitting around the campfire and enjoying another of Chris’s great meals. Generally, we had nibbles and a drink before a dinner of soup and a salad or vegetables and some meat on the Braii followed by fruit. Very impressive for camping.

Sunrise

Overnight the wind really began to howl and howl. Sleeping in a tent that was suddenly buffeting around with sand blowing inside the tent became a little difficult if also a little exciting. The sides were blowing in so much we were sleeping in the middle of the tent on the edge of the bed to avoid any debris flying around. Cam was very amused by the book I was reading at the time.

We all managed to be up and ready for sunrise though, if a little bit disoriented. Lucky for me I had my camera gear in my dry bag (tip from day 2). Mike and Carol needed to do a fair amount of dusting off of gear. Chris needed a chance to start the clean-up so we delayed breakfast till we got back.

Off we headed for what might be Dune 37 based on its distance from the park gate. You cannot stay inside the main gate to the park except for one place up on the hills just inside. There is a section of the camp that is between the outside gate and main gate. That is where you want to be and where we were for the 6am opening.

We got to the dune before sunrise to find only one other small group of people there. Off up the dune we headed in the most incredible wind which strangely only hit you at ankle height. It is hard to describe the experience. Trying to stand upright, watching the sand flying off the dune ridges, while taking photos to try and capture the mood and beauty of it. Ras and Bora both came, and I think it is safe to say we were all moved by the experience. Cam’s sunglasses flew off the edge at one stage. It was hard to tell how safe it was to go after them but he did retrieved them. Unlike poor Mike’s in the Namib desert.

Afterwards we headed down to Dune 45 and found the throngs of people climbing it. It seemed strange to have to do ‘the’ dune so I suggest following our lead and trying the one before. Having come from basically no other people in Namib we now knew we had hit the ‘popular’ trail. There were so many huge vans and trucks of travelling groups. Made our small group of 4 seem even more impressive.

Clean up and move on

It became very clear as we got closer to camp that the windstorm was not easing and flying in a balloon the next morning was off. It was also going be another rough night and outdoor cooking etc not easy. So instead Bora found us some new accommodation along the way to our next scheduled stop. We holed up in the Sessriem campsite bar and cafe for the day. It was a good opportunity to back up some photos, get a tiny bit of internet (coverage was very average) and watch a little of the rugby world cup for those interested (not me).

Day 5 BullsPort to Swakopmund

1. Where we stayed
   BullsPort Lodge
2. What we saw
   Baboon, Cliff Spinger, Crimson Breasted Shrike, Kudu, Oryx, Ostrich, Springbok, Zebra (and many more birds)
3. Tip of the day
   Don’t over pack if you’re travelling in the warmer months it is really easy to wash clothes overnight.
4. Fact of the day
   Namib desert is the oldest desert in the world. Under the dunes are more fossilised dunes including Ostrich eggs.

By afternoon we headed off to the Lodge after the guys got rid of the sand from all the gear and packed up. Once again incredible changing desert views out the windows as well as a variety of animals along the way. Some appeared to be part of farms or reserves. At Bulls Park Lodge we were shown to the most beautiful rooms. Ours did have a Zebra skin on the floor which I found a little disconcerting, so I just pretended it died of old age. What kind of farmer’s daughter am I ha ha.

Having somewhere to just wash all the sand off us and clean out our gear was a huge bonus. We were treated to a 5-course meal at the lodge, that also gave the guys a night off which after the day they had cleaning up made a lot of sense.

Beautiful hills surrounded the Lodge. There were birds and horses for trekking which kept us well entertained. We didn’t have time for trekking but we did enjoy the peace both that evening and the next morning. Sunrise happened right outside the lodge and the birds were playing around everywhere. After breakfast we headed off to our planned destination of Swakopmund.

It was a pretty long day but once again no end of changing landscapes to keep us interested. With the trailer set up we could stop along the way for coffee and lunch easily. Not a day of lots of animal sightings but definitely a day with lots of sights.

The roads are largely gravel and fairly bumpy. We were comfortable in the truck with suspension and padded seats but it did not make for fast travel.

Days 6/7 Swakopmund

1. Where we stayed
   Alte Bruke Lodge 
2. What we saw
   Black backed jackal, Cormorants, Chameleon, Flamingo, Fitxsimons burrowing skink, Guinee fowl, Jackal buzzard, Pale chanting ghost hawk, Ostrich eggs and family, Palmato Gecko, Sand diving lizard, Sidewinder and Horned sidewinder, Tractrac chat
3. Tip of the day
   Last tip was to not overpack. This tip is to ensure you include a scarf or head gear. So many handy uses apart from obvious wind and sun protection. You can wrap things in it, carry things in it, use it as a window shade etc.
4. Fact of the day
   The chameleons’ tongue is the length of his whole body! So its food doesn’t need to get super close.

Settling in

We had a really lovely drive through crazy beautiful and changing landscapes. We passed quite a few tours in huge trucks with lots of people and were once again reminded how awesome it is to just be four guests.

We made it to Swakopmund in the afternoon and first stop was the flamingos at Walvis Bay. Carol and I were sorted for the rest of the day. With just four of us and similar photography interests we were most often ready to all leave at the same time. Not so much here we ladies could have stayed till dark.

Our accommodation for the next two nights was in a two-bedroom apartment, so no camping needed. The team looking after us camped close by but as we had breakfast included, they got a bit of a break during this stop.  Bora also took us out to dinner at a local restaurant giving them an evening off as well. We were totally distracted along with the way with the Guinea fowl – such funny looking birds, and the pretty waterfront and wharf.

The plan was a little drink and then sunset around the pier. For those that know me I am a one drink wonder and the margarita I ordered was clearly past that limit. Off I wondered with Bora and Mike to get sunset feeling less than up to it. Cam and Carol were happy sitting in the sun watching it from the restaurant.  The sunset did not perform that well but with 165 out of 352 days a year misty here we were happy to get anything. The town has such a lovely feel about it. I don’t talk much about food in this blog but that night Bora and Carol both got bone marrow as part of their meal. As a girl who grew up getting the bone marrow out of any meal cooked at home, I couldn’t believe it was a real thing on a menu – yum!

Little five tour

Next morning with met up with Charlies desert tours, which Bora had booked for us, and set off with Ruth our very informative guide. The idea of this trip is to see instead of the classic big five, five little creatures instead. How the trackers found them is still a mystery, but we can vouch that they were not planted which we did laugh about happening.  First up was the sidewinder snake. Tiny, fast and very poisonous from the photos it looks like we got very close but long lenses and a bit of cropping and there you have it. 

Next was the gecko of which I have forgotten its full name. So cute and once it was out it needed to get back in the sand quickly so just a few shots.  One did climb over the hand of ruth and then just hold on to her finder by his teeth.. hmm I wasn’t so sure about that.  A horned sidewinder showed himself after that along with a tractrac chat which was the most curious little bird. 

There use to be a spider as well but it damaged their nest to bring them out to have a look so they are left alone now. Unless your really lucky to spot one. Last but not least was the chameleon. Wow seeing this guy change colour in front of us and then seeing that tongue catch a nearby beetle was a huge treat. It was a little crowded around his thicket but that is the nature of tours and you would not see these beauties otherwise. On most tours Bora purchased the whole tour for us but this one it didn’t work out to do that. 

It was a huge rush back to pick up spot for the next tour where they were waiting for us to turn up. Ops no one wants to be those punters.

Skeleton Harbour

This time we were with Mario from Sandwich Harbour tours.  This trip we headed out onto the dunes via a few more flamingos and the salt works. The pink of salt was incredible here.  We were off to where the Atlantic meets the dunes – like immediately meets the dunes. First we had to wait until the tide went out far enough for us to drive along the sea front, even then the waves were right near the trucks. We saw more of the little five a gecko and sidewinder. We also found some Black backed jackals, ostrich eggs and then a family of ostrich with tiny babies.

The scenery was mind blowing with the dunes going for miles and miles and only jackal or hawk occasionally to break the scene. It was incredible. Halfway through they set up a picnic among the dunes looking down at Sandwich harbour, truly it was magical.  Mario worked out we were having a great time so spent longer out there with us only just getting us back in time for his colleague to return us to our accommodation before he finished for the day. Great service.

Evening debrief

Our final night we had a braai back at camp debriefing from our day. This is one of the highlights each night all eating and chatting together, Chris having produced another great meal. So a quick evening pack up ready for breaky and an early get away as it was a long drive up the coast to Palmwag the next day.  I thought I would find all the driving and sitting really hard as I often suffer from neck and back pain but it was so comfortable, and I was so positively distracted, it just never gave me any trouble – yay.

End of Part 1 and our first week of three completed.

Here is the full album of photos from our first week. Well a small selection given I took many thousand all up.

Part 2 – Etosha National Park and surrounds

Part 3 – Caprivi Strip and Botwsana – to come

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