This is part two of the three part blog of our safari in September/October 2019 with Merubisi Safaris. Largely based around our exploration of Etosha National Park. This link will take you to the first blog (Namibia deserts) which has more background on the trip.
The next section of the trip took in a little of Damaraland and then the highlight being Etosha National Park. We stayed in two separate locations within the park doing multiple safari drives. To go directly to these here are a few links if you want to skip quickly:
Days 8/9 Palmwag, Damaraland
- Where we stayed
Palmwag Lodge and Campsite (Camped) - What we saw
Artic tern, Blackbacked Jackal, desert adapted Giraffe, desert adapted Elephants, Hartmanns Mountain Zebra, Oryx, Ostrich, Seals, Springbok - Tip of the day
If you are going to take photos of local people remember unless you are staying in a village for many weeks and developing a close relationship it is likely to be an economic transaction and decide how you feel about that. - Fact of the day.
The wildlife here has adapted to the desert life in a range of ways. The Zebra have a dewlap on their throat that can hold water until they find their next drink. They also often follow the Elephants who dig for water
Driving up the skeleton coast
Leaving Swakopmund the drive was up the Skeleton Coast, so named for the shipwrecks along the way. We were prepared for a long drive up the coast and into Palmwag, our stop for two nights on our way to Etosha National Park. We didn’t end up seeing many shipwrecks despite a couple of detours in towards the sea. In many cases the remains were very bare. There was a large one just as we left Swakopmund, but it was teeming with people.
The drive took us through still more desert but this time with at least some of it on sealed roads. The sea mist stuck with us till midday, but it moved and shifted along giving glimpses of what was beyond it keeping us on the lookout. Our main stop along the way, apart from coffee at the shipwrecks, was the seal colony.
Coming from New Zealand I was not too interested about seeing seals. Well I got that wrong the colony was thousands of seals strong and the noise and smell was unreal. They were sunbathing, feeding off their mum, swimming, fishing, fighting, mating, and just hanging out. There was so much to watch including sadly some young with fishing nets around their necks.
There were also a few Jackals hanging around amongst them. Carol and Cam watched as they walked amongst the colony looking for little ones to pick off – they didn’t see that happen. Given the large number of adults they were brave even trying. It certainly was an amazing sight with seals also lounging on what was probably once a picnic table and shelter for humans.
Arriving at Palmwag
The rest of the drive did become a slight challenge as we watched the temperature outside go from a nice 25 degrees to a whopping 37 degrees. Pretty hard to keep cool in that even with some air conditioning. As we got closer to Palmwag the scenery changed again with red earth and so many small red stones. We stopped to check out some plants that survived in this environment and were at least 100 years old and looked a little like a low growing palm.
There was great excitement as we got closer to the camp and spotted our first giraffes just casually chewing on one of the few trees around. Such amazing and graceful creatures, the cameras were out clicking in full force.
Next stop was to fuel up just outside of the Camp. Nearby were a few Himba women and children. The Himba tribe is very fascinating with the red ochre covering the women’s skin and their incredible hair. They had jewellery to sell and in return we were able to take their photos.
I must admit I was taken a little unawares and was not really prepared for this meeting. I ended up purchasing something for what even locally seemed a lot, though I was happy to pay. But the women did not seem that at ease even with this transaction and I was left feeling a bit rubbish about it. But as was pointed out to me by our fellow guest it was an economic transaction.
Checking out the lodge surrounds
Next stop was the camp. Just wow, right on the parks edge with elephant poo all around us and a great area to pitch our tents and have our evening fire. Bora, Ras and Chris stayed at the camp site to set up the tents and start dinner. The four of us headed to the lodge to watch the sun go down with a nice cold beer in hand. It had been a pretty long day and was a guilty pleasure chilling out at the end of it.
Dinner was around the campfire with Chris coming up with yet another unique soup to start the meal. A few yarns and then an early night as it was an early breakfast in the morning to get sunrise inside the park. Yay says me, I loved the early starts but was totally wrecked by the nights.
All day game drive
Heading out at sunrise
Well I think we all agreed this was the longest game drive day yet and the bumpiest. Each day I check on my sports watch to see how many ‘steps’ we had done. Generally, very few actual steps but it was great at getting an idea of how bumpy a day was. On average maybe 8-10,000 but on this day 27,000!
Starting the search
This was a day of searching amongst the most incredible landscape. We were looking for desert adapted animals and they are nowhere near as plentiful as in other parks due the struggle to survive this hard land. That makes finding them more rewarding. Giraffes managed to make themselves known frequently but the Hartmanns Zebra where our first real find. They were stunning against this stark red backdrop.
Our real search though was for lions and elephants. We had been following a big gorge throughout the day stopping to have lunch in the shade of a tree within it. Carol and Mike proved themselves a dab hand at cooking lunch, Cam did his best to help and I just died in the heat! I am hopeless with heat but that is something you can’t avoid so the water and soft drinks were well drained this day. At the front of the truck was a huge fridge what was kept fully stocked so you just grabbed out what you needed anytime.
Post lunch search for elephants
After lunch the search continued, we didn’t find lions, they are very rare, but we did find elephants at our last stop. We were heading to the sides of the deep and steep gorge to see what was below. Once I saw one, I got very excited and was signalling to the others trying to show how many there were without spooking them. I think I was probably a little delirious form the heat and long day the excitement was almost too much. Ras had to keep reminding us to move back from the edge – if the fall didn’t kill you maybe the elephant would.
It was a magical end to a huge day. We watched a young female digging for roots. There was also a small family complete with baby making their way out of the gorge. I think it was seeing them in this raw natural setting that just gave me such a thrill.
Having found the elephants, it was bump bump bump back to camp over the red stone earth via a few more giraffes and a lovely sunset. The vastness of this area was just mind-blowing. We were exhausted from probably one of our longest days. Camp was quiet with an early start heading off to Etosha National Park in the morning.
Leaving Palmway
So as the guys had been able to pack up most of the trailer last night we headed over to the lodge for breakfast after vacating our tents. It takes a while to get everything ready for the road so we could enjoy a leisurely breakfast watching the sun light up the landscape. The birds were out in force so that meant cameras were as well.
Time then to leave Palmwag. A quick visit but a great one, such a unique landscape. I must admit that we were all pretty happy when we struck some tarseal and a slightly smoother road.
Days 10/11 Okakuejo, Ethosa National Park
- Where we stayed
Okakuejo Campsite (Camped) - What we saw
African wild cat, Black-backed Jackal, Cheetah, Elephants, Hornbill, Hyena (spotted), Giraffe, Kori Bustard, Kudu, Lions (mating lioness hunting and cubs), Oryx, Ostrich, Rhinoceros, Springbok, Tree squirrel, Wildebeest, Zebra, - Tip of the day
If you want to keep your driver/guide happy have someone who can walk on their back to keep the crinks out - Fact of the day.
Elephants have 1000 muscles just in their trunk. Also the bull is not part of the social structure they go out on their own they will just return to the herd temporarily. They leave the herd usually by about 8
Himba Tribe
Our first stop on the way to Okakuejo was to visit a Himba tribe. We were met by one of the tribesmen who took us into the village and hosted us through the visit. The Himba people are usually nomadic but this is not possible anymore due to land use. This tribe was living as much as possible in the traditional ways together and farmed cattle. Tourism was also a source of income for them so we gave a donation and could purchase things from the villagers. We felt incredibly welcome and it was such a contrasting experience to the one as we arrived at Palmwag.
The women demonstrated how they bath in wood smoke as their bodies are covered in ocre. We learnt about the meaning of the headdress and ankle wear that tells the story of how many children you have and if your parents are still alive. There were demonstrations of curing hides and preparing food. Amongst it all children playing around. It was a fantastic experience and gave us a small insight into the Himba world.
Arriving Okakuejo
Travelling on we arrived at park mid-afternoon. The area is gated, and it was possible they would check your details so for all the Kiwis out there don’t put your passports buried in your luggage on the roof! We were all good as they didn’t ask for them but there were a few times later when we were not carrying them we got caught out so best not to be so casual!
The park is locked from sunset to sunrise so it was a quick unpack and then out for our first safari drive. Ras and Chris stayed back to set up and get dinner underway. We truly were spoiled on this trip. The camp had a series of toilet blocks and lots of other campers. No large animals were walking around so it was safe to move around.
First Safari drive
In Etosha you need to stick to a big network of gravel roads many of which lead to waterholes. Given we were in the dry season this is where all the animals were congregating. You saw plenty along the way as we drove across the park. The park has several camps at different places within it, we stayed at two of these. Up until now we had hardly seen another vehicle while we were out but now we were with more tourists. Some waterholes were busy with 6-8 vehicles around them but often we would still find ourselves alone or with just one or two other vehicles.
Clay covered elephants
Our first stop we were treated to the classic sight of the Etosha clay covered elephants. These guys are so impressive. They are big! And almost white in colour. If they are at the waterhole, they also dominate it. Some zebra were patiently waiting their turn just a short distance away.
Mating lions
While we were photographing the elephants, Bora spotted a bunch of vehicles just hanging out along the road. Something interesting was happening clearly so we decided to join them. There were a mating pair of lions right by the road – they have the whole park to choose so clearly exhibitionists. We missed the mating as we arrived but were told that to just wait as they mate every 15 minutes for up to 5 days! Holy Moly that is crazy. So sure enough we managed to capture the action a few times.
Rhinoceros
We had time to check out one more waterhole before sunset and the gate closing. What another treat. Giraffe drinking, hyena, black backed jackal and then two Rhinoceros. Watching these beautiful creatures lumber in from the distance to the water hole was breath-taking in the dying light of the day. We did not want to leave but had to get out before sunset, so we set a pretty good pace only to get to the gate just as it had shut. We sat for a minute deciding what to do when another vehicle came past suggesting we follow it to another gate. I am guessing that one closed not long after. We did wonder though what they did if you were stuck, maybe you had to pay. Anyway, we didn’t have to find out but it almost would have been worth it.
Around the camp
We were back in time for another sociable meal all together before spending some time at the waterhole by the camp. This waterhole is just in front of the very expensive accommodation, but anyone can go. The animals come and go all day and night so you have no idea what you might see. Its spot lighted softly so you can just stand quietly and watch it all night. I was very tempted to do so but we had another big day ahead of us, so I was happy to take in the visitors as they reflected in the dying sunlight.
Morning drive
The aim this morning was to get out in time for sunrise, or close to, given the gates open at sunrise. I had a shot in mind of the classic African sunrise with animals silhouetted. You can just imagine my excitement as we exited the gates to find two giraffes moving through the rising sun! Tick got that one. That really set the scene for the day. Next was spotting two lionesses our for a walk and when we stopped, they just wandered right past the truck. With all the windows down and the top up in safari mode you sure feel just a little vulnerable.
Chilling at the waterholes
Next stop was a waterhole quite far off and this also meant not too many others around. The exciting spotting at this place was an African wildcat. He was exciting given it’s not a common sighting but there was also a real party going on at the waterhole. We just chilled out for quite some time just watching before heading off to see what was happening elsewhere in the park. It’s a very relaxed, yet exciting, way to spend time (if that makes sense) and we got to do this often.
Elephant herd
The highlight in the afternoon was when Carol spotted a big herd of elephants walking in the direction of the camp. It was clear they were walking a well-trodden track to the waterhole. We followed along getting into great vantage points while not distracting them from their path. What a treat seeing these huge animals from babies to a huge visiting bull (check fact of the day above) walking along together in the most relaxed manner.
When they came to cross the road and head into the waterhole we were in the perfect position to just watch it all happen in front of us, thanks Bora. They created a roadblock for the few minutes they passed across the road right behind us completely at ease. Next was watching their antics at the waterhole. What a mess they made stirring up the water, throwing mud all over themselves and just generally having a fabulous time. The other animals were all waiting their turn but honestly how they would want to drink it after the elephants have been is a mystery to me – thirst must be quenched though.
Afternoon drive
The plan each day was a drive in the morning, back for lunch and rest then out till sunset. Lunch was a moving timeframe and Chris had to be prepared for us to turn up any time. Sometimes the rest was short, like today. After lunch back at camp we went to another waterhole where it was possible the cheetahs hung out nearby. They were high on my list of want to see so that seemed like a good plan to me. We did indeed spot one but sleeping under a tree. This is where the 100-400mm lens came in handy to get this shot. Still pretty thrilling to see them.
The rest of the afternoon was more fabulous sightings of giraffe, zebra, springbok, ostrich and many more. Even though the whole area is a salt pan the landscape provided lots of different backgrounds that really showed off the animals. I particularly like the one of the giraffe and zebra just wondering past each other
We came back in time to see the sunset over the waterhole. I was willing the animals to move into the silhouette but ah well you can’t win every time and it was still amazing. That evening at the waterhole we were treated to a group of rhinos as well as elephants and lots of smaller animals. Unbelievable watching them all come and interact just in front of our noses and seemingly oblivious to us. Equally entertaining was watching the birds swooping and capturing moths and insects in front of us.
Packup at sunrise
This morning was another pack up one, so we enjoyed watched the sunrise from the camp site. The variety of camping styles was interesting. Not that many that were small like us. They were mostly medium to large bus like trucks or hired 4WDs with the camping tent on the top. Having just the four of us as guests very quickly came to be a huge bonus in terms of time and flexibility.
While the pack up happened, we hung out at the waterhole watching the morning activities of many zebra arriving for their morning drink. They are super cautious as they come in. It was also an opportunity to take multiple photos of the Hornbills. Such funny characters it was easy to see how they were picked for Zazu in the Lion King. Soon enough it was time to head off for the next camp, Halali via a game drive through the park.
Days 12/13 Halali, Etosha National Park
- Where we stayed
Halali Campsite (Camped) - What we saw
Banded mongoose, Elephants, Hornbill (yellow billed and damar), Giraffe, Goose hawk, Impala, Kori Bustard, Kudu, Lapwings, Heron, Lions (lioness hunting and cubs), Monk bird, Oryx, Ostrich, Red hartebeest, Rhinoceros, Springbok, Steenbok, Tree squirrel, Warthog, Wildebeest, Zebra, - Tip of the day
Take your time. The temptation is to see as much as possible in as shorter time but there is always more to see than you can possibly cover. When you wait you often witness some cool behaviours. - Fact of the day. Even though a giraffe has a longer neck than all other mammals, it still only has seven vertebrae in its neck, which is the same amount as us they are just a lot bigger. And if you ever wondered how they don’t pass out dropping and lowering their head all the time to drink it’s a little complicated but is due to a huge heart and some very clever movement of blood around the body.
Morning drive to Halali
The drive to Halali took us on a different route to those we had already explored. Watching lines of zebras and wildebeest just wondering along right next to us. There were also some very tender moments. It was so incredible you had to pinch yourself.
Then the first treat of the day happened. We came across a few vehicles parked on the side of the road at the same time spotting a lioness crouching in wait for the grazing wildebeest. Sitting with cameras poised and nerves on edge we watched as she waited for the perfect time to go on the hunt. She was so patient, some springbok came close but no she was after bigger prey. Eventually some 40 minutes later she looked close to going after the wildebeest, and then some idiot tooted their horn. Seriously what on earth were they thinking, trying to get past we think. Anyway, this seemed spur the wildebeest and therefore her into action.
Watching this all play out in front of us will remain one of the most exciting moments of the trip. Sadly, for her it was unsuccessful. The team thought she was likely to be a lioness with cubs since she was hunting alone so success was always going to be a bit tricky for her. Heart racing for us though.
Afternoon drive from Halali
After setting up camp and a quick lunch on the run we were back out to see what else we could find. More incredible sightings of animals just milling around everywhere. Then the second highlight of the day, a lioness and her cubs walking determinedly past us. She had three cubs and while they were clearly on their way somewhere, they also found time to stop and show their affection for each other. One cub seemed a little slower than the others, but they all had full bellies so must have had a feed recently. It was a heart melting moment watching them interact also knowing that they do not have an easy path. The lioness must keep them safe and fed on her own. The other animals were wary of them but didn’t seem bothered enough to get out of the way.
A herd of elephants at a waterhole was another treat especially with a tiny baby elephant among them. Have you worked out yet I am baby mad – be they animal or human?
We were back at the camp for sunset and headed off on a very short walk to the waterhole. You basically sit amongst the rocks up on a small cliff and look down at the animals at they arrive and interact. This is a pretty big highlight of these camps. The rhinoceros were the highlight again on this night, as well as the sunset itself.
Halali day 2
This camp also closes the gates between sunset and sunrise, so we headed out after the sun was up enjoying instead watching it from the camp and having a little sleep in. A good chance here to have a good washing session as well. Most places we could washout out clothes and they would dry overnight. If I had known it was so easy I certainly would have bought less. And I am already a pretty light packer.
The drives today had us seeing a huge variety of animals both along the road and at the waterholes. Some waterholes there was little activity and others heaps. One of the funniest sightings was a hornbill attacking a termite nest. He would dig them out then throw them in the air to catch them. It attracted a heap of other birds along to be part of the party as well.
At one waterhole a family of giraffes (sometimes called a tower of giraffes) came along. There was a baby with them that was getting plenty of stick from the other smaller giraffes. The different colouring of the giraffes was what I found the most intriguing, with one being particularly dark. This could have been age related. The shot of the mum and baby wondering off down the road was another of my favourites of the trip.
While out today we headed to see the salt pan that is in the centre of the national park. It is vast and looks incredibly unforgiving. It did make a good background for some group shots along with the truck though. The pan inside Etosha National Park covers about a quarter of the park and is 4,800km², that is huge! It used to be a lake a very very long time ago and is visible from space.
Sunset Halali
Back to camp and a quick picnic packed up to have our gin and tonics and snacks as the sunset over the waterhole. What a cool feeling and amazing atmosphere with everyone watching silently as the sun dropped from the sky.
We didn’t have many visitors right on sunset but as the light was dropping an incredible scene opened in front of us. A herd of elephants came through the bush to the waterhole their presence known only by the cloud of dust they were bringing. It was such an awesome sight knowing these great creatures were about to emerge from the scrub in the dying light. The soft light onto the waterhole meant we got to enjoy watching them soak up a good drink after a hot day. I could have stayed all night but given we were moving on the next day bed beckoned. I would be back in the morning anyway!
Morning pack up
As we were leaving this morning it was out of the tents nice and early to give time to pack up the truck. This meant watching sunrise from the camp again, so it was up to the waterhole to see what was happening. A series of animals arrived one by one. Springbok followed by Kudu followed by Red hartebeest. Each providing great reflections against the waterhole. I could have just stayed here all-day chilling and taking it in but it was time to head out of the park.
Day 14 Grootfontein
- Where we stayed
Fiume Lodge http://www.fiume-lodge.com/lodge - What we saw
Banded mongoose, Dikdik, Elephants, Giraffe, Ostrich, Rhinoceros, Springbok, Steenbok, Zebra, - Tip of the day
Understand you are on a mobile safari and that due to the distances you travel and roads you are on that repairs might be needed. This was a long day but sometimes things just must be done. - Fact of the day.
As we get ready to leave Namibia in a few days a little more about this amazing country. It’s the 2nd least populated country on the planet with around 2Million people. Around 40% of the land is protected in national parks and the first African country to incorporate protection of the environment into its constitution
Driving out of Etosha National Parkk
The drive took us out and around the salt pan. We passed a few more of the clay covered elephants looking just incredible with all the lines and folds on their weathered bodies.
The final waterhole was like everyone had come to a community meeting. It was full of life with everyone drinking together, no predators to upset their peaceful morning. We sat and watched for quite some time and while we were there a bus drove up, parked for maybe 10 minutes at a stretch and left. In that time there was barely a window that could open and only one side of the bus got a look. Not the way I would want to travel around Africa. Luckily, we didn’t see that kind of sight too often.
The other funny thing was how often we drove past animals. No “stop stop” was called from the truck at the sight of a giraffe unless we were super close. Oh how it changes from the early days of the trip.
The last stop in the park was a brief one at Namutoni camp. We got some fuel and took photos of a few banded mongoose hanging around and were off again. Cam also found an interesting little museum about the Fort that surrounds this camp. Picnic lunch was in the truck today to save time as we needed to stop in a town along the way for some truck servicing. Farewell from Etosha National Park, an experience we will never forget.
Hanging out it Tsumeb
Due to getting a few things sorted on the truck we got to hang out in the mall at Tsumeb for a while. It also gave Chris a chance to restock with supplies which we hadn’t really been able to do since Swakopmund. Nothing happens fast and a few extra things were serviced on the truck, so the wait became a little longer than planned. It did allow us though to stock up on broken sunglasses and few other bits and pieces. People watching was interesting and helped pass the time but we were happy when with the truck sorted Bora was back to pick us up. Next stop our lodge for the night, our stop on the way to the Caprivi Strip.
Fiume Lodge
The drive to the lodge took in another change of desert scenery and had us spotting our first Dikdik. These are the hugest eyed little guys part of the antelope family. Capturing them was tricky but we still tried.
The lodge was not far out of Tsumeb and we arrived just on sunset. The plan had been to get here in good time for a restful afternoon. It was a very pretty farm lodge so nice just to watch the animals and chill out in the great rooms even for an evening. Because we could eat at the lodge there was no need to unpack more than just out bags.
After quite a few camping nights it was great to sort through things in a lodge room. While the lodges along the way were a real treat the camping was so comfortable, I would not have minded it the whole time. But I must admit a toilet and shower in your room did become something you got very excited about.
We had a lovely meal on site and then an early night before heading off for the Caprivi Strip in good time the next morning. By which I mean a generally leisurely 8:30am.
The full album of photos from this post can be found here
Part 3 – Caprivi Strip and Botswana
Part 3 is still being written…..