Four incredible days on the Milford Track

First up the practical stuff – scroll down if you already know this

Tramping the Milford Track has been on our bucket list for a while.  It can be hard to get a spot so keep an eye out for when bookings open and then log on instantly. I mean instantly not a day later or later in the day.  This is really important if you have a specific time you want to go.  For up to date information you are best to go directly to the Department of Conservation (DOC) site here. They are also your best bet for all transport bookings as well in our experience, see below. Note that with hut fees and transport this is not the cheapest tramp but well worth it. The online brochure is really informative.

Note this blog is about freedom walking, which means using the DOC huts. No camping is allowed so don’t get confused by the term.  The other way is with guided walks that are fully organised for you. There are a few options which can include most of your gear, made up beds and catering. The guided walkers stay in their own huts away from the DOC huts.  Everyone walks on the same track but often at different times. Because of this, and small numbers, there is no congestion.

In our case we had not planned ahead but were lucky enough to get a cancellation over Easter, so do keep an eye on the booking site if you miss out first time around.   During the walking season (late October to Late April) you must have a booking and must walk in one direction – Te Anau end through to Milford Sound.  Outside of these times it is very challenging to walk and most of the river bridges are removed so they don’t get washed away. Walking outside these times is not covered by this blog. I have havn’t included a packing list but if you want a good place to start DOC has one for Great Walks.

Transport options

Given you have to walk in one direction and there is a drive of about 80 minutes via road between the start and finish it does take some organising.  First and most important piece of advice DOC can book it all of this for you.  The cost is basically the same as doing it yourself so you don’t need to try to be clever.  Just ring them and talk through your scenarios if you are not certain enough to do it online. There are a few boat and bus options but the costs are similar its more getting a time to suit you.

We chose the following option but I will give you some other scenarios below that you could do depending on your numbers.

We left Cromwell where we were staying at 7am and drove via Te Anau (to pick up our hut tickets and some supplied) to Te Anau Downs. Note Te anau Downs where boats leave from is about 20 minutes out of Te Anau town.  We locked our vehicle and left it at the Jetty.  The boat we had booked via DOC at 1pm took us to the start of the walk.   At the Milford Sound end DOC will book your boat back to Milford, we went for the latest time (3pm).  We wanted to have our vehicle and stay in Milford Sound so Cam took a bus at 5pm back to Te Anau Downs and then drove the car back to Milford where we stayed at the Lodge two nights.

Some other scenarios:

• You can stay at Te Anau Downs accomodation and leave your car there for free, at the time of writing, or pay a small fee (~$15) to leave it there if you didn’t stay but want it to be more secure.
• There are companies that will drive your car to Milford Sound for you so it is there when you finish the walk – these are fairly expensive.  Equally if you have enough people two could drive in and leave a car.
• Leave your vehicle in Te Anau and the boat or other companies will deliver you to Te Anau downs or the start of the walk and then the same options as above from Milford i.e a bus or have your car delivered.
• I guess you could hitch hike out but we didn’t see a lot of that.

Huts and hut etiquette

The huts are all really tidy and are first in first served bunk rooms. Everyone has a bed as there is no one on the track who has not booked. Some huts have large rooms for 20 or so and some smaller for 8-10.  It is best to be relaxed and take what you get, you don’t want to rush the walk to get the ‘best bed’ as no such thing exists.  They all have toilets (no showers). Because you stay with your group of trampers for the full time you get to know some people really well. But there are a few things it is really important to know:

• If you are a snorer then take your mattress to the kitchen areas, in most cases quite separate, and let your fellow campers sleep (most did this happily and the hut wardens talk about this)
• If you are going to bed early or late be considerate and have your packs packed ready to go or sleeping bag ready to slip into. We had one inexperienced tramper who popped on their brand new head torch full brightness at 5am to pack his bag before leaving early shining up and down and all around like a beacon – not a good idea.
• Note that with the huts having a lot of people in them it is easy, if you leave early, to accidentially leave something behind so make sure you get sorted when there is plenty of light.
• The huts have kitchens and some of them had the odd piece of equipment but basically you need to bring all you need – they do have gas cookers though.
• You need all the usual tramping stuff so I won’t repeat it here but the bunks just have a mattress and btw it does rain a lot and there are sandflies!!

Camera kit

Given photography is a great hobby for me I was not going to rely on cellphone photos but you could well be happy with that.  I took my DSLR but with the minimum of gear:

• Sony A77ii body
• Sony Zeiss 16-80 f3-4.5 lens
• ND and a polariser screw on filters (left my fancy ones behind)
• 3 charged batteries and a spare SD card (both 32GB)
• Manfrotto mini tripod for DSLR with solid legs
• Very small camera bag that just took the camera and slung over my shoulder
• Dry bag

This worked brilliantly for me and I discovered clippping my camera bag through the breast strap on my pack made it super easy to carry and very accessible.  It may of course not have looked all that good but hey we were tramping…

Day One: Te Anau Downs to Clinton Hut (1 hr)

The night before we stayed in Cromwell, as noted above, so got up early to drive to Te Anau Downs on the day we started the walk.  We had already decided to leave our vehicle there and Cam was going to bus out at the end to pick it up and bring it back into Milford Sound. Our booking was the early afternoon boat to get the most from our day. We still had plenty of time to get a few supplies from Te Anau, pick up our tickets and get to the Jetty in Te Anau Downs in time to set off.  Lots of other trampers were beginning to arrive and the feeling of excitement was growing. It was a classic misty day but the rain was holding off.   

Its a pretty cool old Jetty where you board the boat. The boat is full of both the freedom walkers and the guided walkers. Guided walkers are easy to spot with mostly gleaming new packs unlike Cams 30 yr old one (photo later).

The boat trip out to the start of the walk was incredible and the first glimpse of what this walk would entail. Beautiful bush, mist and bird life. Included was a narrative of the area and both Maori and European history. I loved nothing more than standing outside with my camera soaking it all in.

The first day is not really a walk at all, more a casual stroll to the hut but it is longer than the guided walkers. Their hut is literally five minutes from the boat and the lovely made up beds and catered meals did not yet seem necessary – maybe they would by the end. The first stop was a beautiful swing bridge to cross the river before carrying on through the stunning bush. I think we took longer than the one hour allocated to stop and take pictures and just get ourselves into the tramping mood – which happened instantly. 

TIP – the walk is so short you can carry in some nice fresh food for day one and extra treats, just remember you carry out what you bring in there are no rubbish bins!!

We spent the rest of our first day just exploring the river by the hut.  Cam walked back to a small wetland walkway we had passed. I was happy listening to the incredible bird song, meeting our fellow trampers and finishing the evening off with a hillarious and dry hut talk by the ranger. Don’t miss these talks each night they are very educational and on this occassion very funny as well.

Day 2: Clinton Hutt to Mintaro Hut (6 hr)

So today was the real tramping day and given I have not carried a pack for a long time I was a little nervous.  We got up and away quite quickly missing the crowds but that did not last long. About half an hour into our walk I discovered I had left my mother in laws walking poles at the hut. With MacKinnon Pass to traverse that was possibly not a great thing.  Cam gallantly offered to ‘jog’ back and get them leaving me with a peaceful half hour to get the camera out and take in the scenery including the cheeky robins that just hang around you.

The bush especially where it had fallen down over rivers and creeks was so interesting. I focused on that detail then would go to the watch at the river edge where the rocks and different levels of bush lead up to the towering hillsides. I could have spent the day there but Cam jogged faster than I expected and there was plenty more to see.

The walk was largely simple today but had its challenges in the misty rain which made the scenery incredible but meant keeping your camera dry a real challenge.  I had not taken much camera gear with me but I did take a very small tripod which stands only a foot off the ground to take a few shots I wanted to have a steady hand for.  This is a little side tributary to the river which we found while checking out a cheeky little Weka and hunting for the Whio (Blue Duck) we saw the former but not the latter.

We met up with our fellow travellers along the way for lunch stops etc but on the whole you are walking the track on your own with just the birds, which are so loud and beautiful to listen to.  There are a few detours on the way and they are well worth doing, most are very short and worth it since you probably won’t be back this way.  Most of them are noted on the map but one that is not that is this small waterful which is beautiful. Watch out for it about about 20 minutes before Hirere Falls.

TIP: while you need to stick to the track there are lots of view points to the rivers and waterfalls close to it, keep your eyes peeled and don’t forget to look up!

All in all this day was probably the one I found the hardest from a tramping point of view which completely makes sense given I have not tramped for a very long time. It was however beautiful the whole way and as the cloud cleared you got these tempting views of the enormous and high rock faces all around. It is like no scenery I have seen anywhere else. Most of the track is fairly flat until the last hour or so as we made out way up to Mintaro Hut. A rock river crossing (fairly dry) and some beautiful native bush completed the days walk.

The Mintaro Hut is one big building with two smaller bunk rooms downstairs by the kitchen, quickly claimed by a large group, and everyone else upstairs. The fire was going madly trying to dry out all our gear – there are no drying rooms up here. The toilets in all cases are seperate from the bunk rooms.  They do warn you to keep anything shiny carefully stowed away and most gear inside for the night or the Keas will have it.

TIP: If you arrive here on a very sunny clear day, drop your pack have a quick snack and head up to MacKinnon Pass. It is envirably cloudy there for the crossing so if you want the view and pictures go for it.  If you have generally good fitness you will manage it easily without your big pack and its not as far away as you might imagine (I am guessing from my photo times under an hour and half one way, less back, with no pack). It is cold though so have extra layers anything can happen in the mountains. Also make sure you leave your intentions in the hut book.

Day 3: Mintaro to Dumpling Hut (6hrs)

Every day on this tramp was amazing but this day was just spectatular. The 6 hour time above does not include a diversion to Sutherland Falls which adds on just under an hour return.We were treated to some Kea antics in the morning but without my decent lens they didn’t come close enough for a great picture. Today was the MacKinnon Pass and I was a little worried about this to see how I would cope but it is seriously no problem at all. Yes it is steep but it is also very short and the views even in the mist were breathtaking. Even though at the top we did not have any beautiful views you could feel just how high you were and how remarkable the landscape is. I loved the little tarns and was just a little sad I didn’t get a reflection in them.

Once you reach the top there is a little shelter hut to rest in for a while and make a cup of tea. We all waited it out for a bit to see if the day would clear but as it looked to be well settled in we began the descent. I really can not find words to describe this, you are walking along the side on an incredible rock mountain face just the size of a pin head. You feel so small in this immense landscape. The two pictures below are taken from the bottom of the descent and the second shot is zoomed in so you should be able to spot the trampers.

Once you come off the rock face, albeit covered in bush, you move through wide river tributaries coming off the mountains, more swing bridges and then into a deep steep gorge with many many steps. The whole walk is a series of amazing waterfalls and the bush at each level changes a little bit more. I could not decide which photos to pick and in the end decided why indeed would you pick when it is all so different and beautiful.

It certainly is a brutal downhill and walking poles for me were pretty essential. At the bottom you hit Quintin hut, which is for the guided walkers, as well as a little shelter for us. Try not to get jealous of the set up for the guided walkers and after a cup of tea (complementary hot water and tea bags/coffee are there for your use) its time to decide if you will go to Sutherland Falls. 

It was not really a decision for us, tired as I was I didn’t want to miss this.  Now its hard to me to suggest if you should do it or not.  The falls are amazing, pictures below, but the whole area is full of falls so if you are really buggered you might give it a miss. You can actually see the falls from the next part of the track. The rest of the walk to the final hut though is easy and largely flat.  I was pleased we did it though photographing them was a bit challenging as the intesity was incredible and the spray goes a very long way! Some swam under them but I was happy to stay dry.

The last part of the walk was through beautiful bush all the way to Dumpling Hutt. Four equal bunk rooms this time with a kitchen well away from the sleeping area. There was much panic and confusiong amongst some of them about how they would make their boat in time and if the guided walkers were first (unlikely as they started back at Quintin Hut) they might miss their connection.  We were totally relaxed as we had booked a 3pm boat and 5 pm bus for Cam so there was no pressure.

TIP (and story) Boating out on the last day there are is plenty of time if you are of reasonable fitness to catch the 2pm boat. The freedom walkers get first priority not the guided walkers.  If there is room the boat will take who ever.  We left last from the hut, had lots of photo stops and still got to the boat before 2pm.  But if your like my crazy little brother who decided to run the milford track then missed the last boat out he managed to swim out to a bouy and signal a fishing boat, leaving his bag at the jetty with a note written in the dirt to bring it back to Milford Sound (BTW not recommended and this was a few years ago)

Day 4: Dumpling Hut to Milford Sound

As noted above we did not rush away and let all the panickers get on the track before us. The last day is a really lovely easy walk and is full of beautiful waterfalls, amazing reflections, rivers, swing bridges and bush. In other words its a fantastic summation of the entire tramp and for us was our sunniest day. These shots are all just views from the track.

We took it very easy as we were under no pressure and had many photo stops. I don’t really have any new tips for this day just don’t feel rushed and take it all in. There are some very well signposted detours like Bell Rock and Mackay falls (together) and Giant Gate Falls all well worth it. If you want a really good photo of Giant Gate falls you might need to get wet, I didn’t.

Once you get to the end there is a shelter to wait in. Given the number of sandflies it is hard not to hole up in there, but if you can cope the scenery is incredible while you await your boat. The boat ride out is very short less than 20 mins and on board you get your first views of Mitre Peak.  At that moment we knew we had made the right decision to stay in at Milford.

TIP: If you’re staying at Milford I wrongly assumed the accommodation we booked was right at Milford Sound but that is Mitre Peak Lodge and I am not 100% sure you can stay there unless you are on a guided walk.  We stayed at Milford Sound Lodge that was another 2kms down the road. It offers a really wide variety of accommodation and has great facilities given it has a cornered market.

Luckily for us a passing traveller took us to the Lodge but I hadn’t researched that very well.  It didn’t really matter if you had a car but when I had to walk back at the end of the day to get the sunset while Cam was busing out for the car and it felt a long way. Especially when I took a wrong turn and ended up on the South side of the airport. Then I arrived at sunset forgetting my mini tripod and filter. Oh dear maybe I was more tired than I realised but once I looked up at Mitre Peak and watched the sunset with families and other photographers all was forgotten. It will blow your mind, not only how beautiful it is but how much it keeps changing.  All the photos below are from this one evening at the end of a fantastic tramp.