The Catlins
In December 2018 we headed off to look for waterfalls in the Catlins. Not just ticking off the popular ones but hoping to find a few others as well. It didn’t disappoint. No trip south is complete without the Catlins.
So where is the Catlins? For those that haven’t been you find it in the bottom eastern corner of the South Island. It is a wildlife and wild landscape wonder with no end of beautiful bush, amazing beaches and wildlife. You will find dolphins, sealions, penguins and many other birds to name just a few. Another blog on those will come soon.
It is also home to stunning waterfalls some on the popular path and others being opened up all the time. This link to the Catlins has the map to most of these falls. Those missing from the map are explained in the descriptions below
Purakaunui Falls
The most popular fall, or at least well know, is the Purakaunui falls, the post card waterfalls of the Catlins. Like most falls in this area they are only a short walk from a main road. There is also a large car park and toilets. Keen to try and get some photos here without the crowds we headed off to be there just after 7am. Sunrise was 6:15am. Surprisingly we arrived to find another photographer in place but just finishing. The standard view point is pretty good. But if you want to explore the falls from different angles, not be in everyone elses shot, or have them in yours, go early. While I took the photos Cam boiled up the little cooker. Coffee, falls and complete peace it was just stunning.
Note the falls will look different every time you visit depending on how much rain. It will change both the flow and the colour of them. We had nice clean water and beautiful early light that just started to wash them out as we left. While the walk is only 10 minutes don’t rush it. There are lots of very pretty little spots along the way to explore.
Koropuku falls
These falls were a real find and are not on the main maps. Interestingly, just after we left there was a big article in the Otago news paper about the men that rediscovered these falls and made the track.
This one is definitely worth the walk in and still only 20 mins off the main road. It is just a small wooden sign on the road that marks these falls though. We drove past and decided to turn around and explore, knowing nothing of its story at that time. The car park is just a small pull off not far north of Chaslands. If it becomes popular I am not sure how they will manage the traffic. The setting for the falls if very very pretty and these will quickly become popular. Cam did walk up to the top successfully on a patchy path but it is not really worth it.
While these falls were really lovely the walk in was just incredible. It was like walking through an enchanted land where fairies and elves would live. The work that has been put in to make this pathway, with punga logs is creating its own wonderland. It was easily our favouite bush walk of them all.
McLean Falls
Probably the second favourite of the falls is McLean Falls. A very dusty gravel road to get to the huge car park complete with toilets. Again it makes sense to be early. We arrived around 9:30am with 4 cars in the car park and when we left it was packed. Again a really lovely bush walk of about 20 minutes before the bottom fall is in view but keep going because this is a huge cascade of falls.
From the main lookout there is a tricky path up and around the side to get to the top fall. You can also get there, as we did on this trip, by climbing up the rock wall (you can see it in the photos below). This was only possible due to the low water level. I bet I looked a real sight climbing up in my walking sandals and skirt with tripod in hand…. Well worth it if you can get up there though.
Matai falls and Horseshoe falls
These two falls are on the same short track though the Horseshoe falls are not mentioned till you are on your way. Its a smaller carpark just off the road and another little bush walk of 10-15 minutes. While pretty these two falls are probably most impressive when there is lots of water. They are not very high but if your into waterfalls, which I am, then you don’t like to miss any. The first ones here are the Matai falls and they had some very pretty autumn like leaves all around them.
The Horseshoe falls are just a little bit further on the same walk. They had a beautiful wall of moss with water just cascading down it. It would be quite impressive in the wet. The Catlins had lots of rain before we came but a few dry sunny days clearly made a big difference.
Logistics
We had four days in the Catlins, you definitely need a car to explore unless you are on a tour of some type. Its a climate that is often wet and windy and wild and that is what makes it amazing and unique. On this trip though we had blue skies and 26 degress every day, just amazing.
We stayed in Owaka for our first two nights and our last night and Waiwaka for the other night. The accommodation in Owaka was at Thomas’s Catlins Lodge and Camp. This is the old hospital and was just excellent, like a backpackers and complete with all the hospital staples. Huge kitchen, big dining area, laundry spaces, tea and coffee in little kitchens everywhere. We loved it, hence returning the last night.
We could only get one night in Waikawa but would totally recommend it. Its away from the nuttiness of curio bay and set in such a lovely spot, the view was excellent.
Getting around is easy, more and more of the roads are sealed than ever before, indeed most of them. The distance between Owaka and Curio Bay is only about one and half hours if you drive it straight… which you never would as there is so much to see.
More blogs to come on the scenery and wildlife, once they are written they will link here but until then get planning and get in touch if you have any questions. Here is a final image to lead into the next blog. Can you spot the Catlins icon in it?
