Mid January with a perfect weather forecast we headed up to the Nelson Lakes from Greymouth. I had been working and exploring around Greymouth quite a lot so we decided to head a bit further afield. Lake Angelus has been suggested by a number of people so topped our list of options. We try to choose tramps neither of us have done so it ticked that box too.
Our first stop was Lake Rotoiti and a night at Top House. I can only give you a trip advisor link but it certainly shows you how beautiful it is. Top House is not down by the Lake but instead up among the farmland looking down into the valley. Completely restored with large log fires, breakfast, quaint rooms and beautiful views. Sadly we arrived a bit late in the day to enjoy much daylight and were off early the next morning
Walking into Lake Angelus
Well fed, packed up and keen to get going we headed past the famous jetties of Lake Rotoiti. It was straight to the start of the track well up in the bush line. Not as far us as you might hope given the climb ahead of us.
But before I get into that, I need to note we did this walk in January (mid summer) on bluebird days so it was deceivingly ‘simple’ from a technical point of view. The Lake Angelus tramp has some very dodgy parts to the track and is unexpectedly high and exposed. You have to be fit and well prepared. Check out the DOC info for any alerts before heading in. The hut needs to be booked much of the year.
For us though the only drama was that first climb up to the ridge. Wow I knew I was not the fittest but I really was just wanting to give up by the time I got to the top. The walk though is lovely with glimpses of the lake and surrounding hills all the way up through beautiful bush. Reaching that look out you certainly just want to stop, get your breath back and soak it all in.
There is a little hut at the top to shelter in if needed. For me it was just another welcome stop. We were heading in along the ridge-line to Lake Angelus hut and there are many connecting walks around here you could spend a week or more exploring.
The walk along the ridge-line is just stunning but you can see on a windy cold day how exposed you would be. Its not at all difficult just long. A few trampers were spotted along the way but largely we had it to ourselves. Down in the valley is a group of buildings that I am still trying to establish the connection to. I think it might be around skiing.
The tramp from here just seems to go on and on. The terrain also gets much harder with some serious rock clambering up and down ridges. I didn’t get the camera out often, I was concentrating too hard. The views were still just incredible though. I imagine this covered in snow would be beautiful but not for the faint of heart. Cam was still going strong though, with his almost 40 year old pack.
It does get a little easier again before the hut, or maybe its all relative. But as well as beautiful tarns along the way nothing beats that first view of the hut and its hard not just just run down the track.
First sighting of the hut
The hut was pretty much full. A full hut ended up leading to a funny and long interaction on my instagram post about hut etiquette. Particularly the question is it OK to wake everyone when you arrive at midnight because you left too late and then begin cooking up a storm. So many different points of view, it was very entertaining. Feel free to keep it going in the comments on this blog. For me, I really did not like it as I am not a night owl though starting early doesn’t bother me. Regardless we had a lovely evening and while the sky didn’t light up for me, the wind dropped and made for some lovely reflections.
The long walk home
We were in no rush the next morning so we just let everyone else get themselves sorted. I did wake early though so was out catching the sunrise. As an early bird I am always amazed when people are in such a place and miss that early morning beauty. Anyway I was very happy to have the scenery almost entirely to myself.
The reflections lasted for ages and ages and I could have spent the day there but we did need to get back and then a very long drive home. We chose to head back via the Speargrass route for a change of scene. The real reason though was I didn’t think I would cope with the ridge scramble again.
The route down to the bush-line was through some lovely open tracks that would be full of alpine flowers in spring and early summer. There was plenty of scree and creek crossings (mostly with dry feet) before hitting the bush-line. We walked largely on our own, there was just one other group from the hut that we kept passing, and then being passed by, all the way to the truck.
Through the bush to home
There were a few more tricky creek crossings before the Speargrass Hut after which you are in the beautiful bush, with the route down following the creek. Don’t you just love how those routes go up down and all around rather than just by the creek. It was stunningly beautiful though some of the prettiest bush I have walked in. Which is a good thing as I was definitely starting to fade near the end.
Six hours later we were at our truck. Super happy with our decision, a camera full of photos, absolutely knackered. I was probably only just fit enough for this tramp having done little preparation. What tends to get me through is gusty determination, oh and making Cam carry all the heavy stuff 🙂
Next tramp planning is always underway and open for suggestions. If you enjoy tramping blogs there is also one on Mueller and Milford Sound on here.
