The Mueller Hut sits high in the mountain ranges of the Aoraki National Park looking straight out at Aoraki (Mt Cook). Its not a particularly long tramp but it is very steep in many places. It also requires climbing at least 2000 stairs till your half way. It has also been on my bucket list for a long time, especially since picking up a camera.
If video is more your thing try this instead copy at the end as well.
Booking
We drove past Mt Cook lookout heading South a few weeks prior to Easter and made the decision to just do it. Googled DOC right then and booked a spot in the hut over the long Easter/Anzac break. There was one night free so now we just needed good weather. The hut is only bookable for a confirmed space from mid-November to 1 May and outside of those times you need to have gear to be prepared to tent. Hut facilities also are more limited. Check the DoC site for all information as it will be the most up to date. This blog is the experience of two trampers, in late April in great weather, the conditions in New Zealand mountains can change so fast.
Getting there
This could not be any easier just drive to Mt Cook village (super easy) and head up to the White Horse Hill DOC camping ground (not a fancy camping site though it does have toilets and a large shelter). The track starts from here and you can camp the night before. We chose not to camp and with Mt Cook accommodation booked out, we stayed the night in Twizel, just 50 minutes away. This gave me a chance to explore the autumn colours around Lake Ruataniwha so was a win win for me (tenting is ok but not my favourite).
We woke early to catch the sunrise on the way in to the National Park were met with thick fog at the first chosen spot of Peters Lookout. Carrying on up to Mt Cook we were treated to an incredible play of light on the lake and over the mountains as the moon shone through and the fog lifted to a perfectly clear day. Looking back, Lake Pukaki was still covered in the fog we had just driven through – first good omen.
First stop was the DoC visitors centre at the village to collect our tickets, well actually the very first stop was the Hermitage hotel for coffee! Once we had the latest weather and information from the DOC visitors centre, we headed up to leave the car at White Horse Hill carpark.
The weather was looking awesome, we had all the right gear and were told there was snow but no need for crampons – perfect. Packing wise we suggest you use the Mountain Safety or DOC lists or any from outdoor stores. There are standard staples to bring. We do own a locator beacon and even on a popular walk would never leave that behind. Packs on, car locked up and we were off.
Heading up to Sealy Tarn
The Mueller track starts with the walk up to the Sealy tarn. It also the route for the short walk to kea point. The longer walk up the Hooker Valley also starts here so it’s a very popular spot. One of the swing bridges was out on the Hooker Valley walk, thus closing it. So, I think it made the other tracks particularly busy. Not really an issue just remember the tramping rule ‘going down gives way to coming up’.
The start is dead easy and flat and then straight up you go to Sealy tarn with its 2000 steps. And who designed those steps btw some giant? Us poor 5 foot 4 inch nothings had to really lift our feet – especially onto the first one in each set, very weird. The one thing I did take, due to knees and a back that gives trouble is two sticks. I was happy I had spent time at the gym as I hoisted myself up a few of the bigger steps.
The views began almost immediately over Aoraki and the both the Hooker and Mueller Lake as well as right down the valley back to where we started. You know the kind of climb it is by the speed at which you gain height.
I am not quite sure how long we took to Sealy Tarn but not the 2hrs it suggested. To be honest it seemed fast. Not easy with all those steps but certainly one I would do again. The great thing with this walk is if you wanted to just get a view you really don’t need to climb the whole way. You would of course miss the tarns which would be a shame but still get the view for those less fit. Some, I have to say, were really struggling and probably would have been doing Hooker valley if it was open. I was ready though for taking my pack off and a rest before the next grind once we reached Sealy tarn.
The tarn itself is quite small, as many mountain tarns can be, but is beautifully placed for reflections of Mt Sefton without the crowds or Aoraki with them. I say that because the picnic table is situated right in front of Aoraki. The water was still which is such a bonus after you walk up all those steps. We filled in time chatting to others and taking photos for each other.
The grind to the ridgeline
Ok the ‘easy’ bit is finished now the rest of the climb to the ridge is largely unformed, rocky and very steep but boy are you rewarded with some amazing views. Not far past Sealy Tarn, maybe 10 mins max is a lovely outcrop it is worth carrying on just a little bit longer for. I feel this is my Kathmandu gear advert shot. The cloud moving up the valley was awesome. We just hoped it wouldn’t cover all the lakes and it didn’t.
This was the last big stop and then it was just grind grind grind to the top. Looking down to Sealy Tarn you can see the height gained in just a few more steps.
The track was steep and at parts a scramble. The poles were good for confidence but with all the rocks I am not sure they helped that much at this point. The track was busy with lots of day walkers, most of my photos have them in if you can spot them. Everyone was super friendly. There comes a point when you can see the ridgeline, but it still feels so far away as the last section is by far the steepest and is on scree. I was getting a bit on the tired side by then but stopping was not going to help so kept on keeping on.
Mueller hut in view
Once you reach the ridgeline there is an outcrop of rocks to the right that are well worth exploring. You look over to Aoraki and directly across at the Mueller Glacier. You are actually looking at Mt Sefton totally covered in ice cliffs. The avalanche sounds begin from here and won’t stop until you leave. Its impressive and eerie, especially at night.
And then the last section with the Mueller hut coming in view…. It was a bit of a rock hop but it looked so good with snow and the red hut, wow just wow. Mt Ollivier standing behind the hut, the first mountain Sir Edmund Hillary climbed.
The hut was teeming when we arrived with probably 40 day walkers enjoying the sun and views. Come 2-3pm though they had all left and most of the hut stayers had arrived, so we all settled into the usual hut banter. Where are you from? Have you been to? Where are you going?
Exploring around the hut
The hut takes 28 and was fully booked. There is a big common area with at least six gas cookers and big tanks of water outside. It an unheated hut but with all the people that was not a worry, and for us the weather it was incredibly mild. Usual rules apply take out what you bring in. Sadly, not everyone does that so at the hut talk they asked if any of us would mind taking some rubbish down. I had space so was happy to help the rangers but annoyed at the people who had left it behind.
After a rest Cam decided to head up Mt Ollivier but I was content taking photos all around the area by the hut. There are so many amazing ice shelfs and glaciers and that clear blue sky framing Aoraki was amazing. We all took turns standing on a rock heap in front of the hut which I imagine is a classic shot.
Before we headed out to sunset Cam turned up with some tonic (infused with gin), pate, cheese and crackers he had secreted into his pack, perfect on the deck!!
Sunset
Oh wow, this has to be the absolute highlight of the tramp, sitting on the ridgeline watching the sky turn pink over Aoraki and golden all down Lake Pukaki. Finding a spot was not hard but wanting to climb higher and higher to get the view both ways was so tempting. I ended up opting for Aoraki as it was just remarkable. I had taken up my light tripod but left filters behind, I think in hindsight they would have been good. At least a graduated one for the sky but hey no complaints I was still thrilled with the outcome and between clicks I was just sitting there enjoying it.
Night sky
After the usual freeze dried meal, it was a pretty nice evening with the usual hut talk from the volunteer rangers and everyone starting to settle down.
But you cannot be up here and not try astro, especially when the half-moon had not yet risen. The Milky Way coming up behind the hut was just magical. I hung out with some other keen photographers who were thinking about moving to Sony. Earlier in the day I gave them my camera to use with their memory card to have a go. I think Sony might owe me some commission now.
I am not a great hut sleeper so was up a few times in the night enjoying the sky. The half moon had risen by now and cast lovely light on the snow. It did mean I was first up for sunrise though I was delayed slightly watching the keas on the deck checking out the leftovers (food or clothes) from the day before. We had seen them flying around and heard them yesterday, but they didn’t come close.
Sunrise and keas
Back to the ridgeline for me, soon joined by the rest of the hut emerging one by one with head torches on. It was quite a cool sight watching everyone come out across the snow to the ridge. The sunrise was a soft pink over Aoraki but just stunning down Lake Pukaki (not that you can see for miles that way unless you climb a bit higher behind the hut).
I was happy just watching the light hit the mountains and bring in the new day. Thankfully the sunrise was not one to get overly excited about as a family of a five kea decided to join us. Now that was exciting, and I was scrambling to change the settings on my camera as well as cope with the wide-angle lens. They landed so close it was no problem.
Once they flew off it was time to quickly change all my gear and hope for that colourful under the wing shot. Oh man there were plenty of opportunities as we moved through the snow trying to predict where the birds would go next. The keas were totally unstressed by us – as they always are cheeky things. They played around till the sun rose then with a squawk they were gone, not to be seen again by us. Its such a wonderful and unique thing to see a Kea now. They are endangered where at one time they would have been in many places on a tramp like this.
Heading down
Given the amount of snow and a tiny frost the advice was not to leave till about 10am. No hardship there who wants to leave a beautiful place like this anyway. We were both impressed with how fresh we felt, and a little relieved. Breakfast, clean up, chat to our hut friends and soon it was time to head down.
I won’t bore you with the details of the track in reverse but suffice to say it was a lot faster and surprisingly a lot easier than I expected. Plenty of scrambling required and it was fairly slippy leaving the hut and heading for the ridge. The sticks were mostly used to keep me upright.
The day was sunny and heading over the ridge back down the steepest part while a little intimidating was not that difficult. Having said that I was ready for a stop at Sealy tarn before we tackled those 2000 steps to the bottom.
Final push was down those steps, again better than I thought though tired legs at the end. The little stretch of flat before the car park is very welcome way to relax the muscles.
Final photo, and then threw everything in the truck and headed to Lake Tasman for another very small walk. That’s how good it felt!
So would I do it again, for sure! but it would be hard to beat the weather we got this time and I think I would still like to know I had a bed in the hut rather than carry up a tent. I think I could do it as a day walk which I didn’t think I could have before, but you would miss the best bit overnight.
Gear and tips
- Camping gear – as noted above use an existing list its easy to get lightweight gear these days new and second hand
- Route is easy to follow if not snowed in. This climb would be technical in snow so you would have to be experienced. If you want to see the route in detail check out this track video by DoC
- Toilets at the carpark at the bottom and hut at the top no others along the way. Bring your own toilet paper for the hut.
- Water at the hut to replenish bottle and cook (not an endless supply in the tanks)
- Give yourself time to enjoy it so don’t start too late
- Use sticks if you like them
- Know the simple tramping code e.g. take only photos and memories leave only footprints.
Photography kit
This is what I took up and I used it all, phone came in handy for a few shots too.
- Sony A7iii
- 16-35mm f4
- 70-200mm f4
- (timer, uv and polarising filters, spare battery, cloths)
- Sirui nimble travel tripod
- Manfrotto pixi mini tripod and GoPro 4
- Husband to help lug all this up
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